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2009

REVIEW Joy at Jardine on Jordan in Stellenbosch

December 20th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 1 comment

If you’re irritated that your favourite city restaurants are swamped with tourists and December upcountry visitors, then head for the Winelands this month. A casual Friday lunch for two might just hit the spot.

Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine’s recent opening means there is still no signage at the start of the Stellenbosch Kloof exit to the farm. That’s not to say word isn’t spreading. Overture restaurant at Hidden Valley (booked solid) is happily referring their spill over guests here. A couple of office parties were happening at adjacent tables too, including a girl’s lunch where a woman with booming voice did her best to include remaining diners in her every observation.

George Jardine’s food and reputation needs little introduction, and when you see the unhindered panoramic view of Stellenbosch over a dam from the terrace dining space, it’s easy to see why the lunch service was full. The open kitchen offers a sizeable window to guests outdoors, keeping the mood relaxed.

The Jordan menu changes often to reflect available suppliers’ produce. I struggled to select between only three starters and four main courses because dishes sounded so enticing I wanted to try them all - a good thing. There is a vegetarian starter and main too.

We settled on Stanford trout (smoked inhouse) served on a shallot dressing with seared scallops and miniature greens. The dish offered fresh tastes and textures, but didn’t stand a chance in the flavour stakes against the outstanding steamed Saldanha Bay black mussels out of the shell, served with fresh pea fricassee on a roll of buttered fettucine. I couldn’t figure out the origin of the sauce and the waiter wasn’t any help (training is in progress), but it worked so well as a whole in a tangy, creamy chowder sort of way. The chef surprised by also sending out a 12-hour braised short rib – a little square of velvet – topped with a sliver of foie gras and miniature greens, surrounded by creamy cauliflower mousse in a pool of stock-rich truffle jus. We gobbled it all up, yet had space for more.

Main courses tend to be wood-roasted in the pizza oven, or grilled where possible. Aged Chalmar beef ribeye had a crumbed marrow crust, celeriac tubes and puree below, charred banana partnering roasted shallot creatively. I rarely order chicken in a restaurant because it’s so often bland or dry. But sections of wood-fired Elgin free-range chicken were so tender under creamy tarragon sauce, with bitter cavolo nero cabbage contrasting sweet turnip puree and a rich stock swirl. Delightful. A yellowtail dish, or a smoked garlic and sorrel risotto with asparagus were other alternatives.

The wine list isn’t overly long or complicated. A plus is that mark-ups seem lower than those at Jardine in Bree Street. The selection by the glass are all Jordan wines, unless it’s a style they don’t make. I’d heard Gary and Kathy Jordan were involved in the wine selection and that rare CWG vintages and a few bottles from France would feature, but didn’t see much evidence. Perhaps there is an extensive list on request.

A rhubarb and honey soufflé looked impressive but didn’t taste properly cooked underneath. But it was a minor glitch. Coffee had a good crema and the dark chocolate torte was delicious bittersweet stuff, offset by mixed berry sorbet. My advice: go soon before everyone discovers this place.

Spend at lunchtime: R200 for two courses, R225 for three courses.
Value: Very good for the style of food. Flavour rating: outstanding.

JORDAN RESTAURANT WITH GEORGE JARDINE, 6km along Stellenbosch Kloof Road, Stellenbosch. Open for lunch Tues to Sun, dinner on Thurs and Fri. Tel 021 881 3612 Jordan
Did you know? Dinner offerings consist of two tasting menus: for meat/fish eaters and vegetarians respectively.

FOODSTUFF Be wowed at Waterkloof

December 9th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

I’ve learnt not to expect much after detouring along the scruffy Sir Lowry’s Pass Village Road to avoid the traffic backlogs from Somerset West roadworks during the past year. But the entrance to Waterkloof winery might change that perception. I realised something was afoot travelling along a 2km vineyard-lined road that steadily inclines. Half way up, Waterkloof’s modern cement, steel and glass tri-level structure is perched dramatically at around 300m above sea level. It houses the working cellar, barrel area, wine tasting lounge and restaurant.

There is minimalist designer furniture in the circular wine lounge, plus some colourful art. But it’s the dramatic views that draw the eye, thanks to 11m glass sheets stretching the length of the restaurant at Waterkloof from floor to ceiling. In views there’s a choice of Waterkloof vineyards on the Schaapenberg Hill to the left, or Gordon’s Bay towards False Bay straight ahead. Pretty spectacular stuff, and my tourist friends were impressed.

With this sort of sensory preamble, French chef Gregory Czarnecki could serve up fish and chips and diners would be happy. Yet fortunately for the adventurous, his culinary ambitions extend a little higher than that. Czarnecki’s opening summer menu is full of risottos, Asian-inspired dishes and other classics with modern twists. His flatware is a cut above and the food looks pretty but is tasty too.

Sample starters: R60
A vegetarian option of al dente asparagus risotto served with Parmesan foam and jus – beautifully prepared and tasty - or oyster mushrooms with rocket, given a dramatic touch from a crispy soft-boiled egg of deep-fried noodles. Of four starters ordered, only a shitake and squid tagliatelle dish was disappointing for the blandness of the squid.
Sample main courses: R105 to 145
Roasted duck breast with coriander crust and a confit duck leg pastilla. To simplicity itself: subtle complementary flavour twists of Red Roman with fennel bulb confit on fennel puree with dill oil. Kudu loin sampled was overcooked and dry, served with eggplant caviar, roasted aubergine and jus with masala cream. But this sort of kink should easily be sorted out.
Sample dessert: R55
Clever lemon meringue overtones of the deconstructed lime pie with almond crumble and tequila sorbet, to an eye-catching vanilla panna cotta with rhubarb marmalade and flavour accents in strawberry and basil foam.

Notable features: It feels like you’re dining in a glass box and views from either the deck or behind glass are so spectacular that lunchtime would be my preferred option here. Wines are available in 750ml bottles. A nice touch is that each dish has a Waterkloof or Circumstance red or white by-the-glass suggestion. If your wallet is willing, the delicious Waterkloof Sauvignon Blanc 2008 is steep at R245, its high tag because the wine is sold out. Circumstance Sauvignon Blanc 2008 doesn’t offer the same tropical intensity-meets-minerality but it’s very drinkable at R108 per bottle, R30 per glass.

Yes, menu prices are firmly in the fine dining category, but a three-courser won’t leave you hungry because this chef avoids “extremes with very little on the plate” because he reckons local customers are “a little scared” by tiny portions. By international standards, the consensus was that the restaurant offered exceptional value compared to what you’d pay for a similar experience overseas.

THE RESTAURANT AT WATERKLOOF, Sir Lowry’s Pass Village Road, Somerset West, Stellenbosch. Tel 021 858 1491, http://www.waterkloofwines.co.za/ Open for lunch daily and for dinner Mon to Sat.

Cape Town summer heli views

November 28th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

Cape Town summer got off to a slow start this year, but as a helicopter flew past my window en route to the
V&A; Waterfront this morning I was reminded about why it’s a favourite spot for holidaymakers.

A few weeks ago four of us were lucky enough to be flown in style from Base Four’s V&A; Waterfront. An hour-long journey took in the harbour and hovered a while above the Greenpoint stadium for an aerial view of the final stages of completion, mindful of the December 4th team draw.

We cruised along the coast from Sea Point, around Camps Bay and over Hout Bay. At Noordhoek beach we were treated to a spectacular display of whale pairs frolicking in the bay. A quick sweep around Cape Point and we were en route back to base via Simonstown and Kalk Bay. http://www.base4.co.za/

We all need reminding every now and then about why Cape Town is special…

FOODSTUFF Bistro Sixteen82 inspires at Steenberg

November 16th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 4 comments

The buzz in the Southern suburbs is about new Bistro Sixteen82 at Steenberg. A Friday 13th opening date didn’t appear unlucky at all, because tables were never empty for long when I visited for a Saturday lunch on the second day of business.

Chef Brad Ball’s reputation has something to do with it. Ball spent time in neighbouring kitchens of Spaanschemat River Café and Pastis in Constantia, and his style hovers between café and bistro.

The Bistro Sixteen82 dining space leads on from Steenberg’s new interactive tasting room with fanciful glass art – coloured decorative glass hanging from the ceiling are supposed to look like grapes, and a tiered champagne flute construction below.

The dining space is easy on the eye in white and cream linen, vinyl and raw wood under a ceiling of driftwood. Wine bottles form part of the glass backdrop. A raised glass and charcoal walled area overlooks the winery in what is termed a Raw Bar (serving charcuterie, sushi and fish gravadlax or other dishes that don’t require cooking). Outside tables overlook a water feature to landscaped pathways beyond. A children’s menu is available but raucous families beware - this is chic country territory.

The bistro serves breakfast, lunch and tapas, and I liked what I saw on plates. The wine list is geared towards Steenberg wine ranges – all served in carafes, with MCC by the glass – plus a smattering of other Constantia wines.

Sample lunch menu: Small with four categories.

‘Stimulate’ – risotto, roasted marrow bones, Norwegian salmon gravadlax and the like, priced around R50.
‘Rejuvenate’ focuses on salads, in half or full portions at around R45 to R75.
‘Experience’ only has one option, a go-the-whole-hog dish called Steenberg Magna Carta of scallops, salmon, foams and oysters.
‘Inspire’ averaging at R70 to R120, from steak and aioli sandwiches to more substantial meaty offerings.
‘Indulge’ includes a few sweet options and a cheese board, at around R50.

TIP: Salad portion sizes are a little mean (the table next to us provided a running commentary about the “poor value”). But in the ‘Inspire’ section the gnocchi with pancetta chunks, broad beans and creamy, cheesy Parmesan Anglaise sauce is so good you’ll want to order a second. Seared slices of grass-fed beef tataki taste delightful, dressed with an Asian drizzle of sesame oil and soy with micro herbs, radish, chilli, ginger and squeezes of fresh lime. You’ll want to ‘Indulge’ in a dark chocolate fondant/hazelnut praline and butter cream layered cake named ‘What’s it called Dave Jones?’ too. It’s quite sublime.

BISTRO Sixteen82, Steenberg Winery, Constantia. Breakfast, lunch and tapas from 9am until 8pm. Child-friendly menus. Tel 021 713 2211

REVIEW weekend dinner with the Duchess

November 6th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

Gautengers have long been familiar with Teresa Beukes’ cooking style, after frequenting her Sam’s Café and Fino restaurants. Now Capetonians are becoming familiar with her new Sea Point venue called The Duchess of Wisbeach.

Décor in the tiny space is as eclectic as Beukes’ personality is rumoured to be, portraits of Victorian ladies sharing space with gilt mirrors, distressed brick pillars and damask in the dining space. Squeezing into a cramped bar with views of a stuffed cow head and bookshelves, we waited beyond our requested late dinner reservation for a table while camp characters rushed past and a drunk man shouted at a waitress. In the buzzy atmosphere none of it seemed out of place.

A one-page menu offered creative starter options but we struggled to be lured when it came to main courses. At our table of four, the boys looked past steak tartare and zoomed in on retro prawn cocktail (R53) – queens in a cocktail sauce that lacked zing to make it special. The girls had kingklip fishcake (R56) and fish fingers (R53) respectively. Lovely homemade mayo partnered comforting minced fishcakes. But the highlight was the fish fingers, solid fishy strips jazzed up in spicy crumbs, delicious with onion raita.

Two beef fillets were grilled correctly with creamy pepper sauce (R95), but the handcut chips on the side were disappointingly soggy. A King George burger (R75) was pleasant enough with a homemade patty, toasted bun, pickles and trimmings, but wouldn’t beat a gourmet burger specialist such as Hudson’s. The surprise was the unusual mussel dish (R70), shells arriving in a fragrant vapour of carrot juice, ginger, chilli and coriander. A peculiar combination but it worked.

Wines at the Duchess are limited – the Beukes philosophy is to offer homely, made-from-scratch food with a few fancy tweaks, as though you’re at a dinner party. So it’s unsurprising that she lists only a few wine labels of producer friends instead of trying to be comprehensive. All very well, but the limited white selection meant we struggled to find a food-friendly alternative to Iona Sauvignon Blanc beyond a pricy Chenin Blanc. Forced to switch, De Grendel Shiraz (R139) delivered everything expected of a red.

It was late so we didn’t venture too far into the sweet section, but nostalgic treats await such as banana split with homemade banana ice-cream or bread and butter pudding. Our shared spoons competed in a serving of Turkish delight and nougat ice-cream (R40). Quite delicious in all its calorific creamy-chewy richness.

Spend: about R185 for three courses, excluding drinks.
Wine: Limited printed list.
Value: Fair. Flavour rating: good but not great. Plenty for vegetarians.

DUCHESS OF WISBEACH ‘BORD KOS’ 1 Wisbeach Road, Sea Point. Tel (021) 434-1525. Open Mon to Sat for dinner only.

FOODSTUFF Tokara Deli opens and Helshoogte snub

October 26th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

Tokara’s new DeliCatessen opened on Stellenbosch’s Helshoogte hill at the weekend. It’s an interesting business model when the financial outlay on interior décor and children’s designer play equipment would be unlikely to be offset in a hurry by a restaurant’s humble food and wine takings. I say this because the number of talented designers, artisans or artists involved in the project seemed to outnumber the lunch menu items.

Don’t get me wrong: I like the white and light interior space dotted with Gregor Jenkin’s and Pierre Cronje tables and chairs, with inviting long couches in a lounge or benches on a deck. They’re designed to encourage people to linger over a newspaper or current magazine (also provided). Other big names include furniture-maker Norman Mehl; wooden toybox crates and a bookshelf cleverly reminiscent of jenga blocks by James Mudge, and a Heath Nash olive branch chandelier. And my favourite, a treehouse in the shape of a weaver’s nest suspended from a leafy oak, designed by Porky Hefer of Animal Farm.

The deli concept for adults is a la carte breakfast and cakes, plus a weigh-your-plate selection from the lunch counter similar to the likes of Melissa’s. A burger with handcut chips and homemade tomato sauce was delicious – I’ll be back. A kiddie’s menu should suit under sixes. Operated by Anne-Marie and chef daughter Kara Ferreira (busy in the open kitchen) with freshness and regional ingredients preferred, a plus is that the Ferreira’s extensive vegetable and fruit garden is regularly raided.

Vineyard views are from the deck or the glass floor-to-ceiling enclosed space. But what most impressed are the moderate menu and wine mark-ups. The target market is yummy mummies and families, and if prices stay this way, the Tokara Deli won’t struggle to attract a loyal clientele.

It makes a change from the neighbours, developing a reputation for offering a slick food and wine “experience” at an international price tag. We drove across the road to Delaire Graff Estate in the hope of ordering dessert and coffee. Their shady panoramic deck is an outstanding and inviting place to while away a few hours, and plenty were doing just that. At 3.20pm on a sunny Sunday I’m not surprised to be told - very graciously - that the kitchen isn’t serving food or dessert until 6.30pm. But I believe they’re missing a trick when ordering a glass of wine or a soft drink is acceptable, but enjoying coffee at the restaurant during a splendid afternoon is off limits.

http://www.tokara.co.za/ Tel 021 890 5950

FOODSTUFF gourmet picnics you will want to try

October 21st, 2009 — kim maxwell | 2 comments

Any seasoned journalist soon realises the value of good public relations people. Sure, they want to punt their products, but the good ones know that anybody with a bit of sense has experienced comebacks from people they like if they recommend something they haven’t experienced themselves. So they don’t.

Personally I’m often on the lookout for good ideas, but hesitant to recommend a wine or whisky release or leisure experience unless I’m certain it actually works, tastes good or offers a useful or unusual service, all the while representing outstanding value. Where it doesn’t, they’ll hear about it too. My flavourBlog is a private space to discuss things that inspire or annoy me, so if a place or service or clever product impresses me sufficiently, you may well hear about it.

I don’t know about the rest, but October holds more deadlines than I can comfortably cope with, thanks to most local magazines completing their December and January issues simultaneously. And since it’s a recession year where rates are down, and there is only one of me to go around, a bumper month means extra commissions, hence quality time with my laptop outside of business hours on quite a few weekends and extra nights.

Drumroll… The Picnic Company is a small business run by energetic Cape Town women that deserve a mention. I’ve tried their picnics previously at wine farms and en route to events, and I’ve never been disappointed. So when lunch arrived in a box on an October day where long hours at a desk seemed a foregone conclusion, it was cause for excitement.

The wine monster was around, and although no alcoholic stuff was included, plenty in the ‘District Six’ picnic satisfied two hearty appetites. The pictures do the talking here, but I should add that their picnics offer convenience, consistent quality, creative preparation and lots of tiny bags of extras. These picnic gals truly think of everything, down to the miniature cheese board and plastic bag to bin your waste afterwards.

Picnics start at R90 per adult, or R60 per child, and on short notice they’re prepared to cater to those annoying allergies, diabetics and kosher friends we’d rather forget about when standing in a supermarket making group catering decisions ourselves.

Oh go on, check out their website http://www.picnics.co.za/ I hold no responsibility for their tagline: With one call, we will do it all!

District Six picnic

FOODSTUFF George Jardine and Jordan restaurant

October 14th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

Scottish Chef George Jardine has filled me in on his new plans. His Bree Street, Cape Town Jardine Restaurant http://www.jardineonbree.co.za/ is one of my city favourites, and Jardine has been saying for a while that he wants to open a second venue to allow his talented chefs to develop their own style.

The Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine opens in late November 2009, a collaboration between Gary and Kathy Jordan and George Jardine. South African wife Louise will be a new addition in front of house (Jardine says it will be a new challenge for them to work together). The concept is country fare in terms of ingredients but retaining the Jardine clean style on plates. Extra additions are a wood-fired oven and grill, and sourcing from favourite country suppliers.

Diners will be able to appreciate Stellenbosch views from patio tables. It will be family-friendly at lunchtime and the dress code won’t be smart. On Thursdays and Fridays smarter tasting menus will be offered, priced similarly to those of Overture. Sounds like a delicious development.

Tel 021 881 3441 Jordan winery for more info. See flavourCape Dec 20th review at Jardine at Jordan

gary-and-kathy-jordan-with-george-and-louise-jardine-and-neleen-strauss.jpg

FOODSTUFF Conrad Gallagher on auction

October 12th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 1 comment

I passed this auction sign while driving home to Green Point in Cape Town over the weekend.

I’m sure the house will fetch a good price: double-storey in a prime address, boasting three bedrooms, pool and granny flat. Interesting that the auction company has his name on the signage instead of the standard address details. Potential buyers expecting a state-of-the-art chefs’ kitchen could be disappointed. The kitchen was fairly standard with a country cottage feel when I last saw it.

They say Irish chef Conrad Gallagher left a trail of irate suppliers and former staff at restaurants and coffee shops when he packed up his family and fled South Africa this year. It’s doubtful we’ll ever know the full story, but it’s surely a warning to any restaurateur about taking on more than you can chew and expanding too fast during recessionary times.

WINE delicious wines at Franschhoek Uncorked

October 10th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

I popped into a few wine farms today during Franschhoek Uncorked today. It’s a festival where wineries offer music, food and leisure activities on their farms in the hope of attracting carloads of Capetonians. And hopefully sell a lot of wine…

Môreson wines were in good company on Happy Valley Road with Bread & Wine Vineyard Restaurant converting into “market stalls” selling fresh produce, buffalo mozzarella, homemade boerewors rolls and my favourite - Neil Jewell’s delicious softly poached Scotch eggs (coated in pork, sage and onion sausagemeat and a strip of homemade bacon). We stocked up on extra Scotch eggs (R15 each) and saucisson Sec to eat at home.

My visit to Lynx Wines was a first. It won’t be the last. I’ve heard wonderful stories about the personal wine experience people receive when they arrive at Dieter Sellmeyer’s small tasting room opposite his vineyards. Peeping into the cellar I’m not sure if it qualifies as a micro-winery, but with red wines punched down in cement tanks and a few wines vinified in a couple of tiny stainless steel tanks, it should be!

German-born engineer-turned winemaker Sellmeyer was raised in Spain, studied in the UK and has worked in a few countries around the world before deciding to put down roots – literally – in Franschhoek soils. Three attractive daughters and a few friends were roped in to dispense tapas to the crowds today.

Spanish-style calamari strips in chilli, and skewered prawns with lime were both delicious with the Lynx Viognier 2009 (R90). Confession: I don’t enjoy most Viogniers as the variety’s stone fruit overtones are often drowned in new oak, reminding me of a reduction of apricot Liqui Fruit instead of white wine. Even if a winemaker incorporates two or three percent of Viognier in a wine I often sniff it out. The Lynx Viognier was such a refreshing change and I happily drank more than a glass. The Lynx secret to refreshing Viognier is sandy soils, and only fermenting and maturing 50 percent of the grapes in barrel; the rest from the tank. Delicious stuff.

I can recommend the Lynx Shiraz 2007 too. Again planted in those sandy soils, acting as a natural vigour control to keep yields low, this vintage made it into WINE magazine’s 2009 Shiraz Challenge top five. Expect a lovely savoury quality, perhaps biltong with coriander seeds. It’s as elegant as its Viognier counterpart, thanks to the use of second and third-fill barrels. Nice price too for a red at R90 per bottle.

BREAD & WINE VINEYARD RESTAURANT, Happy Valley Road, Franschhoek. Tel 021 876 3692, http://www.moreson.co.za/
LYNX WINES, Wemmershoek R301 Road, Franschhoek. Tel 021 867 0406, http://www.lynxwines.co.za/

FOODSTUFF Gourmet closing shock has SA foodie relevance

October 6th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 6 comments

I read with alarm news of the closure of Gourmet magazine after 68 years… Read David Carr’s blog on http://mediadecoder.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/10/05/media-decoder-few-luxuries-left-inside-conde-nast/

I subscribe to Gourmet’s digital newsletter, and while I often find their recipes and tone too American, I enjoy the quality food writing by contributors on their website, disecting issues around chefs and food on a level where the emerging food culture of South Africa simply can’t compete.

Somebody called Julie commenting on Carr’s article struck a chord:
Gourmet’s shuttering is symptomatic of the larger struggles facing all manner of publications. As magazines and newspapers are forced to compete against a din of free online content (of inferior quality), they are forced to provide more editorial content with less money and fewer people. In the end, the public is the loser, as the number of talented paid writers dwindles. We have fewer people whose full-time job it is to keep an eye on politicians and corporate executives. In the case of Gourmet, we have fewer talented chefs and writers researching, documenting, uncovering and pioneering the trends and issues of what we put into our mouths and bodies three times a day.

I echo Julie’s sentiment in part. I make a living writing about restaurant openings, profiling chefs and tracking food and wine trends. I spend a great deal of time doing that, often partnering with talented photographers to produce fairly impressive layouts on very tight writing and image budgets, for very little remuneration in real terms.

Previously I worked in Asia on premier titles, exposed to people who had premium bank accounts funding their gourmet wine and eating habits and I’m not ashamed to say I revelled in it at times. True foodies don’t spend on meals or ingredients for the sake of snobbery, they’re compelled because they have the ability to appreciate flavour equally in a fine dining restaurant or a simple street market stall.

I ate an unexpected meal at Bokkie Botha’s delightful The Olive Branch restaurant (Tel 082 892 7222) while in Prince Albert recently. There was such enthusiasm and attention to recipes from treasured cookbooks and great mealtime restaurant experiences that it infused the meal and overshadowed the lack of technical skill in places. Although Botha is a self-trained cook who opens his Prince Albert restaurant only periodically, this increases demand. And he has more experience than most, eating in and then touring Michelin-starred restaurant kitchens of France and Europe after the meal. It shows in the dedication and love he offers on these country town plates, using a well-intentioned but amateur crew to assist in creating complex dishes.

In South Africa it’s been amazing to track food progress since the days of Apartheid when out-of-touch European chefs served tired buffets in local hotels. We don’t have Michelin stars but we have a generation of chefs and amateur cooks who are enthusiastically discovering local produce, the same produce that receives quality thumbs up from visiting overseas chefs.

I’ve contributed to plenty of sinking titles in South Africa in recent times. A few printed publications don’t have the history of Gourmet, but we have an exciting food culture we’re still exploring. In the same way that restaurants are reinventing themselves to cope with adjusted dining budgets, I’m feeling positive that serious foodies publications will go the same route in SA, and survive. Anybody agree?

FOODSTUFF new restaurant smoking laws

October 1st, 2009 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

Has anybody had any experience of restaurants following the new smoking laws signed into effect this month?
I read an entry on http://www.eatout.co.za/ about it. I also noticed a sign to that effect on a guesthouse in the Little Karoo last week.

According to the eat out website, heftier fines will now be dished out to restaurants that ignore smoking regulations and to individuals who smoke in public places.

Fines for breaching smoking laws have been increased to a maximum of R50 000 for owners of restaurants, pubs or bars, while the fine for individual smokers is set at R500.

The new bit is that restaurants that allow smoking on balconies and verandas need to take extra precautions. The new legislation bans smoking in “partially enclosed” public places.

Hudson’s Burger Joint in Cape Town is one place that didn’t enforce the rule when they first opened. I like their burgers so I’m hoping they’ve taken note!

Parents of young kids also listen up: it is now also illegal for persons under 18 to be allowed into a designated smoking area. Presumably that applies to watching rugby in pubs too. Chapmans Peak Hotel in Hout Bay is a venue that enforced that rule even before these regulations were introduced. Good for them.

REVIEW African Relish not quite 100% Karoo

September 29th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

I’ve never visited Prince Albert previously, but with good friends choosing this increasingly popular Little Karoo town as their wedding venue, I’ve now had the pleasure. The town is centred around dainty old-fashioned buildings along a long, wide main street that seem to offer more guesthouses and gift stores than houses in parts. Some of the manicured lawns contribute to an ordered attitude that defies the dust and crisp air causing city skins to dry out. PA is surrounded by little koppies with rocky outcrops and scrubby bushes, and dwarfed by the magnificent Swartberg range.

One of the newest arrivals to PA is chef Vanie Padayachee, previously cooking at Le Quartier Français, Grande Provence and fu.shi. African Relish is a modern open-plan space in the main street where the kitchen isn’t separated from the dining area, thanks to clever design elements of cement floors, exposed brick or painted walls. One to five-day cooking classes coordinated or led by Padayachee are the main attraction. But on Friday and Saturday evenings African Relish becomes a small restaurant. It’s an elegantly casual place you’ll want to dress up a little for, and one of the better alternatives in town.

A small menu: three starters, four mains (including a vegetarian offering) and three desserts. That’s it.

Fittingly the food is quality country-style rather than cheffy, professionalism showing in the plating. The only “formal” aspect of the meal was a delicious amuse bouche of vegetable soup made from broad beans, peas and herbs from the adjacent garden.

A slice of balsamic roasted onion tart hit the spot with lovely chunky bacon lardons in a vinaigrette over lettuce leaves. Alternatives were a butternut and sage fritter with garden salad and bitter chocolate dressing or a spicy chicken spring roll with mint dressing.

Slow-roasted lamb shank sounded heavy, while twice-baked leek and Parma Prince soufflé (a pungent hard cheese from Prince Albert’s Gay’s Dairy) with homemade tomato relish looked delicious going to another table. It’s easy to overcook game and unfortunately the kudu and pork potjie was, its samp and bean accompaniment delightfully creamy with Padayachee’s addition of cream and Parmesan. My Cape Malay chicken casserole was tastily succulent. It was probably spicier than normal with orange glossiness in the sauce, but I’m thankful that the chef’s Indian heritage means her family sends regular spice packages from Durban. Creamy risotto with squares of roasted pumpkin partnered the dish. A very pleasant Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay blend from local winery Bergwater was priced a little under R100.

African Relish portions are substantial so we shared dessert. Chocolate and fig brownie with white chocolate sauce was ordered, but the waiter brought a slice of moist warm chocolate malva pudding with quality homemade vanilla ice-cream. The mistake wasn’t a problem as the malva was enjoyable. Service wasn’t particularly informed, but then the open kitchen means Padayachee visits tables periodically to fill in the gaps. The African Relish menu has ‘100% Karoo’ stamped on the front page, which might mislead some diners. This chef mixes traditional Karoo favourites with her own style and doesn’t take it too seriously. That shouldn’t be seen as a negative.

Spend: Starters R45. Mains R75 to R95. Desserts R40.
Wine: No printed wine list. Local Bergwater red and white wines are served.
Value: Fair to Good. Flavour rating: High.

AFRICAN RELISH, 34 Church Street, Prince Albert. Tel 023 541 1381

FOODSTUFF New chef at Marc’s in Paarl

September 24th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

I recently sampled spring menu items at Marc’s in Paarl’s Main street, prepared by new young chef Nandé-Mari Versnel. Originally from Paarl, she is back in her home town after training at Warwick’s chef school and working here and there.

Versnel is still finetuning her dishes and although I found the Med theme taken a little too far – a profliferation of olives in various fish and meat courses - there are some promising flavours. The Marc’s menu will have seasonal specials.

Tian of avocado and tiger prawn with a gazpacho sauce needs no tweaking whatsover – it’s delightful. Her spring desserts are great as is – you can’t go wrong with a pear tarte tatin, served here with Van der Hum parfait and sugar-almond crisp. Or a little more unusual: vibrant strawberry soup is combined unusually with fresh mint panna cotta and a dark chocolate-wrapped pastry cigar.

Noteable features: Med-style food and Lebaneze specialities (Marc Friederich is from Alsace and wife Maya is Lebanese). Delicious take-away Alscace flammkuchen from the pizza oven. Extensive yet affordable wine list overseen by owner-sommelier Friederich. Child-friendly. Free wi-fi.

MARC’S MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE & GARDEN, 129 Main Road, Paarl. Lunch and dinner.
Tel 021 863 3980.

RECIPE Ramsay the Beagle braaied peppered fillet

September 22nd, 2009 — kim maxwell | 4 comments

Some of you may be on the mailing list of the Main Ingredient newsletter from John and Lynne Ford’s gourmet-goodies-one-stop-shop in Sea Point. I loved hearing about their kitten Hamish the Greedy Guts Gourmet, who had allegedly “sampled (and, mostly, enjoyed) mange tout, wasabi, sushi ginger, broccoli, pork crackling, Laksa coconut soup, a corner of the Cape Times, smoked salmon trimmings, roast potato and some tomato”. They reported that he wasn’t - yet - keen on wasabi.

Recently pet-sitting two Terriers (one tall, one short) and a somewhat grumpy cat, I was delighted to make the acquaintance of the neighbour’s puppies. A Weimaraner called Chilli, and my favourite – a Beagle called Ramsay! I never asked what inspired the latter puppy’s name, but its owner lived in London so I’m assuming that a certain foul-mouthed Michelin-starred chef had something to do with it.

Ramsay is at that wonderful puppy stage of all paws. I noted on her frequent inquisitive visits into the kitchen that like some chefs I know, there is always tummy space for a little something extra. Chefs I know don’t have ears that drape into the food bowl though…

Our impromptu pet-sitting braai recipe for peppered fillet has been dedicated to the ever-expectant appetite of Ramsay the Beagle.

RECIPE RAMSAY PEPPERED FILLET
serves 5 or 6

1.2kg beef fillet, trimmed
olive oil
black peppercorns, coarsely crushed in a pestle and mortar
freshly ground salt
7 fresh rosemary sprigs

1.Rub the fillet with olive oil on all sides. Sprinkle with crushed peppercorns and salt. Using toothpicks, fasten rosemary sprigs into any folds, securing them in place with toothpicks.
2.Cook the fillet on a braai grid over hot coals (wood and charcoal mixed) for 20 minutes. Cover with foil in a warm place off direct heat while the meat rests. Serve slices of rare meat.

MUSHROOM SAUCE
½ packet of 20g dried chanterelle mushrooms
Approximately 250ml boiling water
⅓ cup butter for frying
1 pack portabellini mushrooms, sliced
a splash of white wine
250ml cream

1.Hydrate the dried mushrooms in a cup of boiling water. Strain and reserve the water.
2.In a saucepan, melt the butter and sauté the sliced fresh mushrooms for about 10 minutes. Add the drained mushrooms and strained water. Cook at high heat to reduce the liquid. Add a splash of wine while doing so.
3.Add the cream and keep reducing the liquid while stirring. The sauce should thicken slightly after about five minutes.
4.Serve warm with the peppered fillet.

REVIEW Friday lunch at re-opened Dutch

September 20th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

I was thrilled to hear that a favourite vividly orange haunt in De Waterkant has finally re-opened in the Chelsea section of Wynberg. It’s taken a couple of years for Stephan van de Ven to figure out what to do, but good things are usually worth the wait.

Approached by fellow Netherlander Tin Korver (whose businesscard says Chair-Man of Twiice international) to share a space in a renovated Victorian building, Van de Ven didn’t hesitate. His neighbours are a vibrant florist, and a baby boutique selling those overpriced imported and cutely packaged clothing items geared at Bishops Court and Constantia young mothers (I’m not joking, a vest was over R300…).

The new space is fresh and inviting. The small menu has familiar Dutch favourites plus a few new options. It feels like Van de Ven just picked up where he left off. He even recruited his old kitchen and service team, including Marizka du Toit in front. The space feels more upmarket, thanks to dark grey walls, wood shelving details and orange only as accents - the original orange-framed photos are on the new walls. The team already seems very comfortable in the new open-plan kitchen.

The Merry Muncher was delighted with a new menu addition, a duck and chicken liver parfait (R60) served with nicely caramelised onion marmalade and a quality slice of brioche from Knead. Wild mushroom tart (R65) served on a puffy pastry disc hit the spot, a port-infused creamy mushroom sauce drizzled over, with rocket on the side. The old menu favourite deserves its place here.

Nasi goreng served with chicken satay, peanut sauce and Indonesian prawn crackers (R65) looked good, going to another table. Our shared main of two salmon trout fishcakes (R65) in crumbs was fried past its best, but decent enough with fresh dill mustard sauce. We drank Joostenberg Chenin/Viognier 2009 (R105) which is also served by the glass. The list includes a couple of whites, reds and MCCs, more than acceptable considering that this is more café than restaurant.

Vying with the old apple crumble with custard is a new item: chocolate cake with orange curd (R40). The description of the latter doesn’t do the pudding justice. It was thick, dark-chocolate-ish and chilled a little too firm in a mousse style. Served in a cappucino cup, liquid fresh orange curd on top. Excellent coffees arrived alongside, but then we could see a shiny stainless steel structure at work from our table, so knew they would be.

Tables in Dutch were already buzzing with young ladies in search of a nibble while catching up on gossip. Why they would be is quite understandable.

Noteable features: Patio tables out back facing a garden and picket fences. Trendy yet comfortable vibe with a good supply of current magazines. Child-friendly. Breakfast, lunch or in between. Private dining space for small functions too.

Spend: R39 to R55 for breakfast (uitsmijter to spicy baked beans on toast or pancakes).
R39 to R65 for lunch (uitsmijter to organic beef kroketten on rye to pasta or fishcakes).
Desserts around R40.

Value: Good. Flavour rating: High.

DUTCH, 51 Waterloo Road, Chelsea Village. Tel 021 797 5838. Mon to Fri 8am – 5pm, Sat 9am – 2pm.

FOODSTUFF Freedom Hill Country Restaurant opens

September 15th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 1 comment

Looking for an affordable country lunch without big menu or wine markups? Freedom Hill Country Restaurant recently opened at its namesake winery in rural Paarl. It’s worth a try, a few kms from Drakenstein Prison with Madiba’s statue outside in one direction; Pearl Valley Golf Course (already supplying restaurant regulars) the other way.

I met the friendly trio behind the operation, all Franschhoek restaurant and guesthouse veterans. Chef Adrian Buchanan, Ryan Bredenkamp and Pieter van Straaten are running the new kitchen and front of house between them. They’re offering a small printed menu of modern classics, plus blackboard seasonal specials. Anoraks take note: the menu is shorter than the very affordable winelist. And the talented Francois Naudé is Freedom Hill’s consulting winemaker.

Aiming at the local market, Buchanan says they are “guaranteeing an affordable dining experience”. With starters priced at R42 – R48, mains R65 to R110 and desserts around R45, they should stick to their word. I sampled a few dishes and while they may not all blow your socks off, there is a good balance of country appeal combined with a little cheffy fidliness.

Sample starters: oxtail-stuffed calamari tubes, beetroot and baby onion tart tatin with herb puree, goats cheese and red onion tart. Mains: saffron prawn risotto, pork belly with jus, signature quail breast and nougat salad with teriyaki vegetables. Desserts: double chocolate mousse with pistachio, pecan nut pie, mascarpone and raspberry tart. Service is a little shaky but should improve.

Noteable features: Patio tables offer views across the Berg River Valley towards the Simonsberg. Child-friendly. Affordable food and low wine mark ups. Freedom Hill wines by the glass, Cape wines by the bottle.

FREEDOM HILL COUNTRY RESTAURANT R301 Wemmershoek Road (between Paarl and Franschhoek), Paarl. Lunch and dinner. http://www.freedomhillrestaurant.co.za/ Tel 021 867 0963

WINE Unexpected five-star supper

September 11th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

Spending two days visiting producers in the Hemel-en-Aarde wine valley near Hermanus researching a magazine feature has its up side. My mud-splattered car and plenty of notebook scribbles are evidence of tasting plenty of good wines, including some zippy, flavour-packed just-released 2009 Sauvignon Blancs.

Arriving home in Cape Town to a stewed chicken-in-a-pot dinner cooked by my husband was a treat. His eyes lit up when I uncorked two part-bottles to drink alongside the meal, given to me by their winemakers to finish off. Although I didn’t say anything until after said husband had given an opinion on the wines, they were two Platter’s South African Wines 2010 five-star rankers.

I generally use Platter or other awards only as a quality indication, but I wholeheartedly agree with the panel about these two wines. Kevin Grant’s Ataraxia Chardonnay 2008 is sourced from two vineyards in Hemel-en-Aarde and one in Elgin. Grant’s own Chardonnay vineyards in the newly named Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge part of the valley weren’t old enough to go into this wine, but if vines are positively affected by good scenic views these chaps will definitely perform!

At R175 per bottle the Ataraxia Chardonnay 2008 is too rich for my tastes, but it was a treat to savour a barrel-fermented glass with nuttiness, creamy marzipan and mineral notes. It’s rare that we both enjoy a Chardonnay enough to refill the glass.

The second five-star wine was Newton Johnson Domaine Pinot Noir 2008. R188 at cellar door from the winery’s new flagship range and sourced from the NJ “domaine” vineyards in Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, it’s different to their regular Newton Johnson Pinot Noir 2007 (R162) from Elgin fruit. It takes a while to warm up in the glass but like its humble winemaker Gordon Johnson, the Domaine Pinot 08 eases into the role with quiet confidence. This delicious SA Pinot doesn’t put a foot out of place. A pitter-patter of tannins, delicate length and sweet, squishy cherry fruit. Yum.

WINE Spring day grazing at Villiera

September 6th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 1 comment

Our conversation in the car on the first day of spring focused on eating habits and small versus large appetites, bringing to mind a colleague’s recent trip through the Kruger Park with inlaws. It’s that tricky situation we’ve all experienced when travelling with people we’re too polite to be forceful with about the catering arrangements, wondering whether their idea of a good meal is a slug of coffee or a full cook up.

Waking at the crack of dawn to witness animals in the wild at their best is only pleasant if you know you can expect breakfast or at least lunch after five hours. If not, there is little to focus your mind away from a rumbling stomach. My colleague and I are definitely of the hearty chomping variety, not grazers satisfied with ad hoc snacks.

Imagine our disappointment then after a 1pm start time to taste the new wine vintages at Villiera (website http://www.villiera.co.za/) and the lure of a big-name chef, to discover that lunch was grazing-style and on the run. One clever touch was a Caesar salad served in sabraged bubbly bottle tops, upturned and stacked in the traditional wooden bubbly riddling racks. But that’s all I sampled, so we wouldn’t miss the first safari drive to view game in a section of Villiera’s new Stellenbosch conservancy.

Villiera will be opening the conservancy and wine safari drives to the public on appointment during the summer season and they seem like a lot of fun. Together with a neighbour’s collaboration, a 175ha property is being developed as a wildlife sanctuary. The area is stocked with game and includes 10 dams and marshy areas that attract birdlife.

Villiera’s Brut Natural 2007 was launched too. It’s bone dry at 2.14g per litre residual sugar but elegant nevertheless. I found it lovely and fresh. Cellarmaster Jeff Grier says the Brut Natural is a hit with health-orientated customers who believe they are allergic to sulphur in wine. In this wine’s favour: incredibly low levels of sulphur, low alcohol at 12 percent, and no additives. Villiera’s first vintage of Brut Natural was released in 1998, and it’s become such a popular drink that volumes routinely sell out. Grier would love to make still wines with low sulphur but it’s too risky. Bubbly it will be then.

RECIPE Have another piece of chocolate cake

September 1st, 2009 — kim maxwell | 8 comments

I have that old Crowded House song in my head. “Can I have another piece of chocolate cake?” The rest of the lyrics deal with buying cheap Picasso fakes and Andy Warhol laughing in his grave. No idea what it’s really about but I’m happy because my weekend chocolate cake attempt was fantastic!

Let’s say I’m a fairly decent cook. I throw savoury things together hurriedly and the flavours work; when I set my mind and time to recipes they mostly perform on cue. I’ve never been great at pastry but I used to be pretty good at baking when growing up. British cooking wiz Delia Smith says baking is the one area where you have to stick to precise measurements and she’s right.

So I’ve found it incredibly annoying that after spending years in Asia where stirfry-orientated stovetops are standard in rented kitchens but ovens are not, I was finally armed with baking tools again. A reliable Defy oven, and a coveted Kitchen Aid artisanal mixer, the latter a collective wedding gift from generous family. Yet I still had baking flops.

Was it the recipe, the oven or me? The lightbulb moment was when somebody told me conventional fan-assisted ovens should be reduced by 10 degrees, the baking time shortened by five minutes or so.

I’ve edited enough chefs’ recipes and found crucial steps omitted to not even attempt some of them. I was in search of a rich and gooey chocolate cake recipe, ditching plainer versions from the very user-friendly cookbooks of Ainsley Harriott, Tessa Kiros, Rick Stein, Pete Goffe-Wood and Lannice Snyman in my collection. Then in a worn copy of Donna Hay’s Flavours I found an entire chapter devoted to chocolate recipes. A layered chocolate fudge cake sounded perfect, the synergy with Donna’s cookbook name only sinking in later.

The result? Reducing the oven temperature and baking time meant the recipe worked like a dream. Quality Nomu cocoa powder for the sponge, double layers halved and filled with chocolate cream.

A word of caution. This was no budget or diet-friendly version; three packs of melted Lindt 70% chocolate later, blended with butter and cream… But it was delicious and the sugar-free fudge frosting kept it bittersweet and not overly rich. A splash of Frangelico liqueur even kept it decent on day three. Three rugby-watching boys on Saturday afternoon were extremely happy to supplement their beer and biltong with a coffee and chocolate break. And most importantly, it seems I’m finally getting my baking groove back!

Contact me via email if you want to try Donna Hay’s delicious recipe, with my modifications. I’m reducing the fudge quantities as there was a heap left over.

REVIEW Recession-friendly Joostenberg Sunday lunch

August 27th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

We’re all affected by the times, and going out for restaurant meals often seems unnecessarily extravagant. But restaurateurs and talented chefs depend on locals to stay afloat, and many are struggling to keep ticking over during slower, cost-cutting times. I don’t know about other foodies out there, but I need a regular dose of something special on a plate to lift my mood. Preferably food prepared by somebody else. Something that makes me forget weekday routines and sticking to a grocery budget. A culinary stick-it note about how pleasurable simply prepared ingredients, uncomplicated company and country air can be.

A Sunday lunch at Joostenberg Bistro does all that without leaving a bad stamp on the bank balance. This warehouse-style family-run venue won’t score points for décor or flashiness because it’s attached to a deli with a produce section, bakery and pork butchery. But the bistro run by the unpretentious Myburgh family serves a mean plate of food and glasses or bottles of wine at great prices, with unobjectionable service that is family-friendly. The menu is a la carte during the week, but Sunday lunch is the time for lazing and chatting with friends or family over two or three courses at a set price. There isn’t a lot of selection – two or three options per course – but that isn’t the point.

At an outdoor table overlooking the garden, three out of four of us ordered the warm goats’ cheese and tomato quiche starter. A lovely taste of sunshine delivered in sundried tomatoes with tangy cheese, in a shortcrust pastry tartlet, served with dressed, assorted salad leaves. Alternatives were homemade brawn with caper and gherkin dressing or soup.

When pigs are reared lean and healthy as they are at Joostenberg, you can’t go wrong with roast pork as a main course. Slices of chef Christophe Dehosse’s herb-stuffed pork roll are classically flavoured with fennel seeds, thyme and garlic prominent, with crisped crackling of course. Creamy potato gratin Daphinois and German-style sauerkraut stopped any gravy from escaping over the side. The sizeable portion of homemade tagliatelle was cooked past al dente, but otherwise provided a delightful pasta flavour combination with roasted tomatoes, pork chourizo slices and grated gruyere gratinated on top.

Joostenberg’s wine list mark ups are incredibly moderate, with plenty from Joostenberg’s own label in white, red and by the glass, as well as other brands including interesting extras such as Villiera’s French label Domaine Grier L’Aqueduc 2006 (R140). The Joostenberg Chenin Blanc 2009 (a steal at R61) is tasting deliciously fresh, as Chenin should.

Two shared desserts between four provided a sweet note in a reassuring if unexciting way: warm malva pudding with creamy vanilla sauce, and a runny cream-style ice-cream called nougat glace with in cool berry coulis. A successful meal all round, aside from watery coffees that seemed to have left their crema in the kitchen.

Spend (Sunday lunch only): R100 for two courses, R130 for three courses.
Value: Very good. Flavour rating: high.
JOOSTENBERG BISTRO, R304 near N1 Stellenbosch exit, Muldersvlei, Stellenbosch. Tel 021 884 4208

Did you know? Christophe and Susan Dehosse are opening their own restaurant in November 2009 in the old skuinshuis in central Stellenbosch. It will be called Christophe’s.

FOODSTUFF Artisanal charcuterie with brandy

August 20th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 3 comments

When companies with substantial marketing budgets want people to try their product range they often cook up silly concepts. A charcuterie pairing with some brandies in the Alchemy of Gold range seemed far-fetched, but I’m glad I didn’t miss this.

Steve Jeffrey used to have a farm in Hopefield, but these days a fleischmeister in Cape Town makes artisanal charcuterie to his recipes. If you haven’t tried Steve’s cured meats and sausages yet, get down to the Neighbourgoods Market http://www.neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za/ near Woodstock on a Saturday and find his Charcuterie stall. The quality and flavours are outstanding. But be warned, he routinely sells out.

“It’s simple to make a cheap product, but very difficult to make a quality product. All my cured meats take time. We start with cured meats and add aromas and alcohols,” Steve explained, introducing assembled tasters to various combinations. Pork is most commonly used to make pancetta, sauccison and chorizo. But Steve is experimenting with a combination of springbok, apricots and pinenuts. He also makes a beef sausage with pomegranate and red wine (find this at & Union bar Tel 021 422 2770). Spicy Merguez, metwurst and air-dried bresaola are other possibilities you might find.

With Nederburg Solera, Van Ryn’s 12-year-old and the like, we sampled delicious cured meats and they weren’t bad at all as brandy-friendly partnerships. The link? Both brandy and Steve’s charcuterie are natural products free of preservatives.

Pancetta of cured pork loin was a favourite, air-dried for four months, sliced thin with a smoky rind. “Pancetta is a cousin to a Parma. I wouldn’t do justice to a Parma. Our pigs aren’t good enough,” says Steve.
Sauccison Sec of salt, pepper and garlic (Steve also makes sauccison Champagne and du Cap) triggered a discussion about the best age for sauccison to be eaten. Steve reckons both wetter or mature, dryer flavours work. It’s a matter of personal preference because sauccison keeps well.
In warmed sausages, chorizo was a treat, a harissa blend of sweeter spices and birds’ eye chilli combined with pork loin.
Warm Luganica was truly delicious and unusual. I believe it’s modelled on an Italian sausage, Steve’s version made of Karoo dorper lamb, coriander seed (adding lovely pungency) and orange zest and not quite as fatty as the chorizo.

REVIEW Lemon curd, Kalk Bay Sunday and Kassia & Figg

August 16th, 2009 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

A sunny winter Sunday in Kalk Bay started with a first-time visit to a delightful deli cafe called Kassia & Figg for lunch, followed by an energetic coastal walk to Muizenberg beach.

Kassie Watrobski and her daughter Inge opened this simple sea-facing spot in December 2008. It’s filled with deli items and clever colourful handmade trinkets items for kitchens - knitted pastel tea cosies for instance - and the daily menu consists of papers clothespegged on ‘washing lines’ inside a wooden frame. Cake stands on a central table tempt with daily bakes and iced biscuits. As the wire sign on the wall says, this is slow food.

Taking a window table opposite the Kalk Bay entrance tidal pool, we ordered a burger, and homemade chicken and mushroom pie with salad respectively. A ciabattaani (oval ciabatta) made of Eureka organic flour from Muizenberg baker La Petite Boulangerie made all the difference. Life is too short to eat bad bread, or burger rolls for that matter.
A free-range beef pattie had garlic mayo for zing, the salad filling complemented by sweet caramelised tanginess of Oded’s Kitchen konfyt of onion (also sold here).

The Merry Muncher’s appetite was sated and satisfied, and we took along wine as the place isn’t licenced. On that note, the water glasses are also the wine glasses.

My homemade pie with salad was delicious in that light, homemade-pastry-kind-of-way, but there was space for a sweet snack as we left for our coastal path walk to Muizenberg. A miniature lemon curd tart with feather-light pastry went too.

Fast forward an hour of brisk walking, after which we stopped in again for a shared buttermilk waffle with cream and syrup. Poor coffee was the day’s only sore point. One Americano had no crema - perhaps it’s because Kassia uses fair trade beans, in line with their social and environmental commitment to supporting organic or artisanal products. It extends to yukky unbleached serviettes and loo paper that disintegrate into shreds on touch.

Spend: R24 to R49 for salads, soups, creative bruschettas with fillings or sandwiches, homemade pies and burgers.
Waffles, brownies and miniature cakes: R18 to R25. Value: Very good. Flavour rating: high.
KASSIA & FIGG artisan deli, 24 Main Road, Kalk Bay. Tel 021 788 3337 website http://www.vanielje.com/kf/

A wonderful Sunday of eating over? Wishful thinking. I have a friend who is the Cape version of domestic culinary perfection. Arrive in her aromatic kitchen and she’s bound to be in an apron with cookbooks scattered about. While the rest of us work a full day and throw something together, she routinely boasts a stocked fridge, a recipe to be tested and something edible bubbling or baking. The passionate purist had been invited along to Kassia & Figg, as we enjoy communal eating expeditions. But a domestic non-cooking chore beckoned, so we were invited to drop in afterwards.

Inconveniently the message arrived late, after we were suitably stuffed. “But I knocked something up for tea,” she cajoled,“so I’m not taking no for an answer.” A delicate situation indeed, with Merry Muncher nursing the start of a migraine, me on a distinct sugar high. But such culinary enthusiasm is rare amongst friends.

I’m glad we soldiered on. On arrival a cake was being assembled and icing-dusted. Not just any old cake, but a triple lemon curd sponge cake sandwiched with lemon-seeped silky sauce and cream. Did I mention that lemon curd is one of my favourite things? I haven’t had curd in ages, then twice in one day - this runny, oozy version from lemons grown in her garden. Naturally I felt compelled to try a slice… delightful. Even more so the next day. No chance we’d be sent home without teatime take-aways!

Flavour Cape