November 2009

Cape Town summer heli views

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Cape Town summer got off to a slow start this year, but as a helicopter flew past my window en route to the
V&A; Waterfront this morning I was reminded about why it’s a favourite spot for holidaymakers.

A few weeks ago four of us were lucky enough to be flown in style from Base Four’s V&A; Waterfront. An hour-long journey took in the harbour and hovered a while above the Greenpoint stadium for an aerial view of the final stages of completion, mindful of the December 4th team draw.

dsc_0035.jpg We cruised along the coast from Sea Point, around Camps Bay and over Hout Bay. At Noordhoek beach we were treated to a spectacular display of whale pairs frolicking in the bay. A quick sweep around Cape Point and we were en route back to base via Simonstown and Kalk Bay. http://www.base4.co.za/

We all need reminding every now and then about why Cape Town is special…
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FOODSTUFF Bistro Sixteen82 inspires at Steenberg

The buzz in the Southern suburbs is about new Bistro Sixteen82 at Steenberg. A Friday 13th opening date didn’t appear unlucky at all, because tables were never empty for long when I visited for a Saturday lunch on the second day of business.

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Chef Brad Ball’s reputation has something to do with it. Ball spent time in neighbouring kitchens of Spaanschemat River Café and Pastis in Constantia, and his style hovers between café and bistro.

The Bistro Sixteen82 dining space leads on from Steenberg’s new interactive tasting room with fanciful glass art – coloured decorative glass hanging from the ceiling are supposed to look like grapes, and a tiered champagne flute construction below.

The dining space is easy on the eye in white and cream linen, vinyl and raw wood under a ceiling of driftwood. Wine bottles form part of the glass backdrop. A raised glass and charcoal walled area overlooks the winery in what is termed a Raw Bar (serving charcuterie, sushi and fish gravadlax or other dishes that don’t require cooking). Outside tables overlook a water feature to landscaped pathways beyond. A children’s menu is available but raucous families beware - this is chic country territory.

The bistro serves breakfast, lunch and tapas, and I liked what I saw on plates. The wine list is geared towards Steenberg wine ranges – all served in carafes, with MCC by the glass – plus a smattering of other Constantia wines.

Sample lunch menu: Small with four categories.

‘Stimulate’ – risotto, roasted marrow bones, Norwegian salmon gravadlax and the like, priced around R50.
‘Rejuvenate’ focuses on salads, in half or full portions at around R45 to R75.
‘Experience’ only has one option, a go-the-whole-hog dish called Steenberg Magna Carta of scallops, salmon, foams and oysters.
‘Inspire’ averaging at R70 to R120, from steak and aioli sandwiches to more substantial meaty offerings.
‘Indulge’ includes a few sweet options and a cheese board, at around R50.

TIP: Salad portion sizes are a little mean (the table next to us provided a running commentary about the “poor value”). But in the ‘Inspire’ section the gnocchi with pancetta chunks, broad beans and creamy, cheesy Parmesan Anglaise sauce is so good you’ll want to order a second. Seared slices of grass-fed beef tataki taste delightful, dressed with an Asian drizzle of sesame oil and soy with micro herbs, radish, chilli, ginger and squeezes of fresh lime. You’ll want to ‘Indulge’ in a dark chocolate fondant/hazelnut praline and butter cream layered cake named ‘What’s it called Dave Jones?’ too. It’s quite sublime.

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BISTRO Sixteen82, Steenberg Winery, Constantia. Breakfast, lunch and tapas from 9am until 8pm. Child-friendly menus. Tel 021 713 2211

REVIEW weekend dinner with the Duchess

Gautengers have long been familiar with Teresa Beukes’ cooking style, after frequenting her Sam’s Café and Fino restaurants. Now Capetonians are becoming familiar with her new Sea Point venue called The Duchess of Wisbeach.

Décor in the tiny space is as eclectic as Beukes’ personality is rumoured to be, portraits of Victorian ladies sharing space with gilt mirrors, distressed brick pillars and damask in the dining space. Squeezing into a cramped bar with views of a stuffed cow head and bookshelves, we waited beyond our requested late dinner reservation for a table while camp characters rushed past and a drunk man shouted at a waitress. In the buzzy atmosphere none of it seemed out of place.

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A one-page menu offered creative starter options but we struggled to be lured when it came to main courses. At our table of four, the boys looked past steak tartare and zoomed in on retro prawn cocktail (R53) – queens in a cocktail sauce that lacked zing to make it special. The girls had kingklip fishcake (R56) and fish fingers (R53) respectively. Lovely homemade mayo partnered comforting minced fishcakes. But the highlight was the fish fingers, solid fishy strips jazzed up in spicy crumbs, delicious with onion raita.

Two beef fillets were grilled correctly with creamy pepper sauce (R95), but the handcut chips on the side were disappointingly soggy. A King George burger (R75) was pleasant enough with a homemade patty, toasted bun, pickles and trimmings, but wouldn’t beat a gourmet burger specialist such as Hudson’s. The surprise was the unusual mussel dish (R70), shells arriving in a fragrant vapour of carrot juice, ginger, chilli and coriander. A peculiar combination but it worked.

Wines at the Duchess are limited – the Beukes philosophy is to offer homely, made-from-scratch food with a few fancy tweaks, as though you’re at a dinner party. So it’s unsurprising that she lists only a few wine labels of producer friends instead of trying to be comprehensive. All very well, but the limited white selection meant we struggled to find a food-friendly alternative to Iona Sauvignon Blanc beyond a pricy Chenin Blanc. Forced to switch, De Grendel Shiraz (R139) delivered everything expected of a red.

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It was late so we didn’t venture too far into the sweet section, but nostalgic treats await such as banana split with homemade banana ice-cream or bread and butter pudding. Our shared spoons competed in a serving of Turkish delight and nougat ice-cream (R40). Quite delicious in all its calorific creamy-chewy richness.

Spend: about R185 for three courses, excluding drinks.
Wine: Limited printed list.
Value: Fair. Flavour rating: good but not great. Plenty for vegetarians.

DUCHESS OF WISBEACHBORD KOS 1 Wisbeach Road, Sea Point. Tel (021) 434-1525. Open Mon to Sat for dinner only.