January 2010

FOODSTUFF: Good bistro grub and sea views

January 28th, 2010 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

I’ve been meaning to mention a recent Hermanus daytime discovery. I can never understand the appeal of going “into town to look around” when away for relaxing time-out with friends. I like to get as many groceries as possible in one shop, and then limit additional trips to the busy centre. I’d rather spend my time cooking, reading or relaxing on lovely beaches and walks. But I was pleasantly surprised during December and January when I found myself near the centre of Hermanus at The Bistro and didn’t mind lingering.

I met owner Tamsin Koen by chance a few months back and she outlined her perfectionist approach to her soon-to-be-opened bistro. Her aim was the best available quality produce and a healthy slant – everything as “pure” as possible so organic or free-range where possible. No preservatives or additives, and food on the menu made the old-fashioned way. It sounded good, but many a novice restaurateur soon downscales once they consider costs and practical limitations.

Well I’m happy to report that at The Bistro these objectives have been achieved. I’ve popped in for tea and cake a couple of times, and happily tucked into homemade baked cheesecake and healthy muffins. The loose leaf tea selection is varied, and served in elegant glass teapots. pure_bistro.jpg

On another occasion I’ve had lunch on the terrace with a gorgeous sea view. The food was enjoyable and the drinks a refreshing change: homemade lemon cordial, Napier beer or delicious Elgin Terre Madre apple cider were options. Edible choices ranged from the quiche du jour, salads, and – our choice - good bread with a tasty charcuterie board selection sourced from Cape Town fleischmeister Steve Jeffrey (see earlier blog entry on his artisanal charcuterie at artisanal charcuterie. We also tried a baguette filled with pesto, tomato and mozzarella cheese produced at Newton Johnson’s dairy in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. My kind of fresh eating.

Nice touches: the food is served on vintage china and old-fashioned prints are fashioned into placemats and aprons. There are interesting décor and homeware trinkets to purchase, as well as delightfully fragrant lotions, soaps and room sprays to acquire. Only down side is you’ll pay almost as much for these as you would for your meal!

The Bistro, Just Pure, Marine Drive, Hermanus. Tel 028 313 0060. Pure

REVIEWS Top 10 seafood not all hitting the highs

January 13th, 2010 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

In the January 2009 issue of WINE magazine, I was part of a team of reviewers recommending 10 South African spots for good, simple seafood see WINE seafood.I selected the team and the criteria, and also reviewed all Western Cape venues. How disapointing a year on to discover that quality had slipped severely at some of them. dsc_0015.jpg

During December and January 2010, over nearly a month of visiting family or friends, a summer holiday request for seafood didn’t seem unreasonable on days when we didn’t fancy entertaining at home. As with the WINE magazine 10 spots, we sought out everyday seafood where the focus was on freshness and simple presentation. Yet the quality of food and service seemed to take a serious nosedive once the serious holidaymakers arrived. With a few exceptions the motto seemed to be: tourism is alive and well and we’d love to take your money, but we’re very happy to rip you off.

Here are my 2010 summer holiday highs and lows, from those that made the original top 10 or reserve bench in January 2009 of WINE magazine:

Thumbs up: Live Bait, downstairs in Kalk Bay harbour, early December Sunday. Tel 021 788 5755. In my original 10 favourites, I’d happily go again. The linefish was creatively presented, succulent and served with a Champagne sauce and colourful vegetables. The battered hake and chips was fried in fresh batter, in oil that had been changed regularly, and the price was average. Visitors from overseas enjoyed the lunch and were happy to wander the streets afterwards.

Bientang’s Cave, inside a caveside precipice adjacent to the old harbour, Hermanus, early December weekday. Tel 028 312 3454. dsc_0022.jpg Previously only in the WINE magazine reserve bench, but it deserves an upgrade after we spotted two whales very late in the season! Aware that it is a tourist trap, we booked a waterside table over the bay. We were disappointed to hear they only had calamari steak cut into strips, instead of tubes, but the dish was pretty tasty nevertheless. What a pleasant surprise to have the bluenose catch of the day expertly grilled and served with thin chips and lots of lemon wedges. No-frills food, but worth a stop when you have visiting friends in search of sun, sea and decent grub.

Thumbs down: Quayside Cabin, new harbour, Hermanus, mid December weekday. Tel 028 313 0752. Absolutely appalling meal. Originally included in the WINE magazine seafood top 10 for being an inexpensive, simple harbourside venue that wasn’t part of a franchise. I liked the fact that they use sustainable fish suppliers. But having a SASSI sticker on your door doesn’t excuse poor ingredients or delivery during a busy service. A waiter persuaded our table that three orders of calamari were “the best around” even though they were strips in crumbs. Two orders of a calamari and prawn combo, plus one calamari and fried fish combo. The battered fish was off, so we returned it directly to the owner in the kitchen (the waiter being too busy to notice). The dish removed from the bill, we were charged for a replacement starter portion of calamari ordered. Even the calamari didn’t come near its hyped reputation because the oil hadn’t been changed regularly and it was over-seasoned. With no apologies from the owner, we paid our bill as fast as possible and left with that stodgy unsatisfied feeling you have after eating too much bad fast food.

dsc_0031.jpg Tricky things to photograph: spot the whale fin!
Thumbs up: Chapmans Peak Beach Hotel, Hout Bay. Tel 021 790 1036. In the original list of 10, I wrote that if you queued for a deck table and ordered a pan of “tender calamari rings in light crumbs, you won’t bother anywhere else”. calamari_pan_sml.jpg
Visiting friends went for lunch in mid January 2010. They were really impressed. Their only regret: not being advised against ordering a separate calamari for their two-year-old as portions were big enough for junior to dip into too.