February 2010

WINE Constantia’s Sauvignon Blanc fest

February 28th, 2010 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

I was remarking to a friend the other day that Cape Town hasn’t had its usual sweltering wind-free February weather. But after a few recent scorchers in the CBD had me clamouring for a fan on full blast, or heading for the nearest air-conditioned shopping centre, dsc_001.jpg I decided the weather was merely doing the Capetonian thing: arriving fashionably late.

The ‘Constantia Fresh’ Sauvignon Blanc Festival afternoon held on the lovely leafy Buitenverwachting lawns over the last weekend of February was one of those scorchers. Billed as a food and wine tasting, around 30 wine producers poured their current and older vintages of Sauvignon at tables dotted around. A few wines from France and New Zealand were added to the local line-up.

Six Cape fine dining restaurants were part of the line-up (unsurprisingly including four Constantia venues). The event had just the right numbers with people wandering from table to table at leisure, even if the food element was rather hit and miss. Buitenverwachting and Grande Roche chefs served snacks from wine tables, but tracking edibles from other restaurants depended on your skill at nabbing a passing waiter. Even with success, few waiters were able to identify the dish or the restaurant.

Nevertheless it was a lovely sociable afternoon that showed off Constantia’s natural scenery and some lovely wines too. While many people enjoyed line-ups of older vintages offered by some local wineries, I thought the newer Sauvignons were too smart to ignore.
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Wines that stood out:
Delaire 2009: Lovely Stellenbosch fruit shines brightly in an opulent style, exactly what I’m looking for in a chilled glass when I don’t want to think very hard. Yum yum.

Tokara Walker Bay 2008: very mineral and austere. It seems way too young to be taste-testing but there’s good stuff to come. I’d like to try it again in six months time.

Thelema Sutherland 2009: Gorgeously flinty mineral notes from their Elgin vineyards. It’s an earlier vintage than the Tokara sourced from a neighbouring wine area, yet the fruit is so much more expressive now.

Newton Johnson Resonance 2008: Their Sauvignon Blanc 2009 offers vibrant grapefruit freshness, but the Resonance 2008 will appeal to those who like a little more oomph in a glass. Fruit is sourced from one vineyard near the NJ Hemel-en-Aarde cellar, plus some Elgin grapes. Gordie Johnson added 20% of naturally-fermented Semillon to round it out. It’s a lovely drink, a combo of fresh mineral notes with oily complexity from the Semillon. dsc_005.jpg

Korus Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand 2007: Tasting four Kiwi Sauvignons on display, I was nearly bowled over by the sensation of gooseberries - way too much for comfort. The Korus showed gooseberry flavours too, but I enjoyed it because South African winemaker Jasper Raats’ winemaking also delivers depth and complexity in the glass. Good effort.

Oak Valley 2007 and 2009: This Elgin farm makes a stunning range of whites, and Sauvignon Blanc is no exception. Tasting an older 2007 vintage was a treat. This wine is lovely, showing a slightly tropical fruit intensity without a hint of bottle age. The 2009 is exactly what I want to be sipping now in Sauvignon: fresh chalky hints with crisp green apples. Delicious stuff.

Interesting that the wines I highlighted here are mostly from less traditional areas such as Elgin and Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. There are plenty of good wines from Constantia, Durbanville, Stellenbosch and Darling too, each offering diversity and specific regional profiles. The thought I took away was how good our South African Sauvignon Blancs are. We used to lag behind New Zealand. No more.

REVIEW Hout Bay relief in nick of time

February 16th, 2010 — kim maxwell | 5 comments

Are you also annoyed and irritated, tired of being overcharged for food that under-delivers at mediocre eateries passing as restaurants? Surely I can’t be alone here. After too many recent disappointing experiences, I’ve realised I have three alternatives: one, resist spur-of-the-moment meals at popular places because I can often prepare better results at home with similar ingredients. Two, stop dining out completely (impossible). Or three, eat out less often and frequent only owner-run places for modest meals. And occasionally, spend more but eat better at fancier establishments run by chefs with a proven reputation. I’m opting for three.

You’ve surely had similar dismal meals at neighbourhood eateries, entering after assuming the venues can’t be too bad if routinely packed with people? Try strange sauces concocted from the condiment shelf, ruining grilled calamari and chips, or a prawn and chips dish respectively, at Bravado! in Green Point. Nearby, Doppio Zero delivered a R60 salad with contents out of a catering pack. Did the kitchen staff think diners wouldn’t notice old, soggy leaves partnering underripe avocado segments? The offending salad removed, a gristle-ridden steak roll didn’t do much to improve the mood. Take-away pizzas from Southpole near Milnerton revealed a curious bulk cheddar-dominated mozzarella topping (a kitchen cutting corners?), and a hefty R15 charge for basil leaves with additional rocket leaves curiously charged at R5.

dsc_0001.jpg Rather doubtful of ever finding a modestly-priced culinary pick-me-up, six of us went for Sunday lunch in Hout Bay. And I’m happy to report that a new venue called Wild Woods saved the day. A one-page menu offered enticing options, many ingredients sourced from small-time farmers or artisan producers. I spotted some nostalgic dishes I recall eating as a child, but with a creative twist here and there. A hand-selected wine list ignored boring co-operatives or monopoly wineries with convenient distribution, and instead showcased labels from interesting small-timers such as Adi Badenhorst. Six options came in at under R100 a bottle.

Wild Woods opened in January 2010 on the former site of Comida restaurant, adjacent to Chapmans Peak Hotel. Chef and restaurateur Pete Goffe-Wood hasn’t bothered to alter the previous venue’s décor so the loos look a little tacky. But it means hefty overheads aren’t passed on to diners and menu mark-ups are moderate – he wants locals to return as regulars, and a kids menu will attract families (management specifies ‘restaurant-friendly’ children).

The menu punts artisanal and free-range ingredients where possible, and between us we taste-tested a good range of dishes. A platter of talked up Spanish-style ham from Prince Albert’s Jamon Lucas offered salt-cured tanginess with rocket and shaved Parmesan (R60). Wellington’s artisanal Buffalo Ridge mozzarella was the other pricier starter (R60), equally delicious with miniature tomatoes roasted on the vine and homemade pesto. Most starters are between R40 to R50, ranging from Caesar salad to free-range chicken liver parfait, toast and onion marmalade.

dsc_0007.jpg Bistro favourites dominate main course options too, ranging between R60 and R100. Between us we tried crackling-crisped hunks of pork belly - comfort food if ever there was – in a pool of mustard sauce, mash and roasted fennel bulb. Along similar lines, a deliciously old-time Sunday roast beef included creamed horseradish, perfectly puffed Yorkshire pudding and a glossy gravy. Grilled sirloin was nicely aged and ably matched by Café de Paris butter and crunchy narrow chips. Roasted free-range chicken breast sounded an unusual combination with fresh porcini slices, potatoes and béarnaise, but worked surprisingly well on the plate. If anything lagged behind it was service. Friendly enough, but staff training is obviously a work in progress.

We had the choice of gorging on a chocolate pot with homemade malt ice cream or a grape pannacotta with raspberries. The cheese plate offered a good local selection, with toasted homemade bread and relish. Sorbets of the day made a great lighter option, peach working well with a really refreshing grapefruit and Campari combo. It left a sweet note on an uplifting experience all round. Oh, and don’t expect to try all the dishes I’ve recommended - the menu changes often.

WILD WOODS, adjacent to Chapmans Peak Hotel, Hout Bay. Tel 021 791 1166, wild woods Open for lunch Tues to Sat, dinner Tues to Sun. Series of shared platters for Sun dinner at R135 per head.

REVIEW Cafe Bon Bon is worth a trip

February 6th, 2010 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

A friend told me a while back about a Franschhoek spot with a divine setting and delectable cakes. A late January Franschhoek visit proved that Café Bon Bon is exactly what its French name suggests: café good, good… dsc_0037.jpg The winding drive to La Petite Dauphine guesthouse is textbook Franschhoek tourist stuff, and the daytime restaurant offers a lovely summer setting with tables outside an old sandstone building on a shaded terrace overlooking a duck pond.

A small printed menu offers fairly limited choices, with starters ranging from R49 to R72. Lots of salads on starter and main menus, presumably the idea being that some are ordered as a meal – a smoked trout and barley salad (R72) with creamy dill dressing appealed. We shared an oak-smoked snoek fishcake with homemade fruit chutney and salad (R49) instead. Pleasant, but I wished I could taste more flavours of the fresh herbs, ginger, garlic and chilli listed on the menu. c_bon_bon.jpg

A lot of Chris Smit’s menu has a creative, somewhat healthy twist. The beef burger (R69), for instance, appeals for its partnering with red pepper hummus, grilled aubergine and butternut wedges. Main courses range from R65 to R125.

Our mains were a chicken wrap and pork belly, both recommended as chef specialities. No regrets on either. If you’re hungry, I reckon the pork belly (R98) has few rivals in the Western Cape. I dare anyone to disagree after looking at my photo. A hefty option for summer lunch, a caramelized layer of crackling and tender-sticky meat, in a pool of intensely flavoured caramelized chilli sauce. Pureed potatoes, wilted spinach and julienned red peppers added flair. Although not as showy, roast chicken breast with cashew nuttiness was tasty yet light in a mild, flavoursome curry filling (the chef makes his own pastes) inside a flour wrap (R68). With freshly dressed salad and tomato salsa, what more could anyone want?

dsc_0045.jpg You may not feel like you have capacity, but the fresh bakes are so worth it (R35 to R42). I couldn’t resist because the cake display tempts whenever you’re en route to the building housing the bathrooms. After a 20-minute break before coffee and a very large slice of lemon meringue, we got lost in feathery white peaks and tangy lemon filling, relieved that we’d had the sense to share one piece. The carrot cake also has a following.

CAFÉ BON BON, La Petite Dauphine, Franschhoek. Tel 021 876 3936 café Bon Bon Open daily for breakfast and lunch. Dinner on Friday only.

See my February Q&A with chef Chris Smit at Chris Smit on a plate

FOODSTUFF Picnics in Franschhoek

February 3rd, 2010 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

Wineries with restaurants know that serving food is a sure way of doubling cellar door sales. So the latest Winelands trend isn’t surprising: gourmet picnics on scenic lawns or tranquil outdoor spaces with tables and chairs. Kids can run around without bothering anybody so it’s a no-brainer. Over the past few months I’ve tried a lot of gourmet picnics while compiling a guide to the Winelands for Getaway. Some Franschhoek suggestions appeared in WINE, and a few Winelands suggestions should be published in Indwe in March 2010 - picnics and picnic wines being the theme. Please send me feedback about others you’ve tried.

klein_genot_09nov_060.jpg Franschhoek options include Mont Rochelle Hotel and Country Vineyards blankets offer comfy settling alongside the dam or tables in the gardens. Three choices range from the Country Basket (R290 for two), Gourmet Basket (R370 for two) or Deluxe Basket (R450 for two), depending on whether you’re wanting basic country fare, or a gourmet fill of Franschhoek trout, Tiger prawns, shucked oysters and petit fours at the deluxe end. Children under 12 at R85pp. Tel 021 876 2770, Mont Rochelle. At Allée Bleue Wine Estate picnic baskets collected from the picnic gazebo are eaten off white tablecloths under ancient oaks. Baskets filled with terrines, cheese and sandwiches to avocado Ritz serve two (R145pp) and include a vegetarian option. Children at R80pp. Tel 021 874 1021, Allee Bleue.

At Rickety Bridge you can play boules amongst the vines, and then picnic on a small patch of lawn or at tables on the restaurant’s small downstairs deck. It’s a lovely environment but the deck isn’t great as a romantic spot because picnickers are in full view of restaurant guests. This gourmet picnic experience (R135pp) includes delicious sticky wings to prawn-and-cucumber skewers. Tel 021 876 2129, Rickety Bridge. Solms-Delta’s Fyndraai restaurant offers blankets and baskets stocked with farm veggies, tandoori chicken, trout and homemade bread (a bottle of Lekkerwijn Rosé is also included). Find a forested spot along the Dwars River to enjoy the spread. Baskets for two R120pp, children R75pp. Tel 021 874 937, Solms-Delta. At Klein Genot picnic baskets (R128pp) are enjoyed at 20 designated spots on oak-lined Franschhoek River banks with vineyard views. Tel 021 876 2738, Klein Genot.

FOODSTUFF: Portofino owner can charm, but can his food?

February 3rd, 2010 — kim maxwell | 1 comment

A quick posting after a large media lunch at Portofino, hosted by owner Cormac Keane with Jane and John of Cuvées Classiques supplying some delicious Drappier, Lallier and Jacquesson Champagnes.

Like most of my colleagues, I went along because I was curious to see if the owner was as obnoxious as the 2009 emails made him out to be. The story eventually made it into a Dublin newspaper, see Basil Faulty rant for amusing reading.

Mr Keane’s tirade resulted after a customer requested he open the restaurant early - which meant roping in staff earlier too - and then cancelling at the last minute. What escaped most readers was that the customer was actually in the wrong, and the restaurateur had every right to be furious or demand compensation. However Mr Keane’s rude - if wittily put - email response didn’t endear Portofino to some potential customers. And it may be an ongoing theme. See Cormac’s annoying customer list.

So my first question on meeting Mr Keane at Portofino (dressed in a stylish grey suit he acquired when in the Moscow-based employ of Russia’s wealthiest man): “So how has business been since the email fiasco: responses suggested that customers were either decidedly turned off, or intrigued enough to visit?” Mr Keane responded that he’ll know the outcome in about six months time.

My impressions of the man were positive: he has entertaining stories, enjoys South Africa, and has a good Irish sense of humour. I haven’t visited Portofino independently since he took it over - the interior decor and tableware is virtually unchanged from its Showroom days. But I was out of Cape Town for much of December and January. And pretty busy checking out new eating spots in the Winelands ever since, mostly dining out on my own account. Had to add that last bit, in case I’m accused of being one of those journalists who never tips if hosted for a meal! I routinely do that too by the way.

Portofino impressions: A starter of warm creamed mussel and Champagne soup with green apple sorbet offered lovely flavours and the mussel broth was delicious, but I am so over cold sorbets with hot partners, and would’ve preferred something in keeping with the times. Oven-roasted fish with pesto was tasty, lifted by roasted Roma tomatoes. Beef fillet had a berry sauce, but little to excite as a dish, served with diced green veggies and mash (I wasn’t enticed enough to stay for dessert, but a colleague said the signature Lindt nemesis cake with white chocolate and semi-freddo was impressive).

As to whether I’ll be returning to Portofino soon, who knows? Yes, an independent review is the best test of a restaurant. But a hosted media lunch should deliver an experience so exceptional I’d want to keep eating - and return. They know we’re analysing every element. Today’s menu was passable without being exciting. I expect restaurant food to add a dimension beyond what I can do at home myself. Mr Keane let slip that a new chef is starting soon.