June 2010

REVIEW: World cup sausages and Bread & Wine

dsc_0013.jpg As a winter sunny Sunday lunch choice in Franschhoek, few venues beat Bread & Wine restaurant at Môreson winery. It rarely fails to tick the boxes as a restaurant serving flavoursome yet innovative country fare that is free of pretentions. Other pluses include views of orchards from outdoor tables, wine tasting next door on a Sunday, and chef Neil Jewell’s home-cured charcuterie and products at the Farm Grocer to tempt on your way out. dsc_0015.jpg

Our table of ten was a mix of local and visiting adults and children, and there were plenty of similar sized groups around us. Margherita pizzas were ordered for candidates under 12 while the rest focused on starters and mains.

A shared antipasto plate (R105) received plenty of satisfied smiles, farm-cured hams, mortadella, salami and lamb biltong attractively presented on a wooden stand stacked with crostini. Scotch egg segments, olives, yoghurt cheese balls and rocket salad made appropriate flavour friends, and even the Italians present felt the charcuterie was up to scratch. We picked at thin slices of Neil’s signature narrow pizza, a long thin-based version topped with mild Cape Malay-spiced lamb confit, baba ganoush, Alpine cheese, peppadews and fresh herbs (R55).

Being soccer fans, we felt obliged to support Neil’s World Cup of Sausages, a “battle” between eight or 10 sausages or sausage-inspired dishes representing some of the competing soccer nations. Dutch frikadellen sounded interesting, as did England’s pork and oyster terrine. Two shared portions of Greek turi sausage were served with rice-shaped orzo pasta and a tzatziki-inspired feta mould (R55). Sausage flavours seemed a touch too delicate perhaps, but the dish was a fun way to drum up fan fever all the same. dsc_0022.jpg

Main choices worth singling out include a hearty confit of pork belly with cassoulet and Provencal crumbs (R130). Less successful, seared tuna with creamy polenta (R130) was way overcooked. And a triumph, char-grilled octopus that looked as vibrant as it tasted with roast tomatoes on flavoursome risotto with chorizo (R125). A starter portion of potato and fontina cheese gnocchi (R55) with a runny centre hit the spot as a lighter vegetarian option, a smoked mushroom vinaigrette and crisped leek bits adding freshness and crunch to the dish.

We sipped Môreson Pink Brut Rose, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinotage, all with very moderate mark ups. The meal then tipped dangerously into red card territory when a waitress told us the chocolate fondant puddings were all sold out. Dessert alternatives were limited to poached rhubarb and custard, or plates of fudge and sweets. A dejected mood settled over the group.

But manageress Tina Jewell made a brilliant save - three portions of warm chocolate fondant (R50) were available after all! dsc_0028.jpg As with most dishes at Bread & Wine, it had a twist here and there. A salted caramel ice cream and caramel praline combined deliciously with the oozy-centred warm chocolate cake and coffee sauce drizzle. We left happy and full after enjoying the sunshine. The only criticism: there is a creative selection of starters to entice, but Bread & Wine could expand a bit on their main course and dessert options.

Spend: About R230 for three courses, excluding drinks. The fact that many starters can be shared reduces the group per head spend to around R200.

Value: Good. Flavour rating: Very good. Options for vegetarians.

BREAD & WINE, Happy Valley Road, Franschhoek. Tel 021 876 3692, Bread & Wine Open for lunch Mon to Sun.

More Mzoli’s magic

The atmosphere was such fun, couldn’t resist posting more pics…
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SA diet: Meat, Bafana and Mzoli’s

dsc_0014.jpg June 22nd was an amazingly proudly South African day. With overseas socceroos in tow from Australia, Mzoli’s Place in Gugs was our logical Cape Town destination to watch Bafana Bafana bow out of the World Cup in style. There are plenty of flatscreens around and the volume is always full blast. Our Bafana boys played incredibly passionate soccer, and the vuvuzela-blowing Guguthlethu contingent we joined were behind them with every cheer and roar.

Arriving early to claim a Mzoli’s table is a good idea - our reservation had disappeared. Like many township eating options, Mzoli’s is a butchery and operates on a seemingly chaotic system. Hundreds of people are fed braaied meat in a day so it somehow works. Weekends are generally packed to capacity.

There are a few principles to remember at Mzoli’s: it’s cash only and drinks are ordered at the bar. Meat orders are placed with competent ladies inside in the butchery, after selecting your type and quantity of steak, pork, lamb chops, sausages and chicken. dsc_0018.jpg Specify if you want barbeque marinade (worth having), the required portions of mielie pap, spicy chakalaka of raw green peppers, onion and chilli – essential condiment – and mielie bread (we thought we paid for delicious-looking giant slices but the bread was finished when we collected our order). If you’re there for sport, hold on to your belongings whenever a goal is attempted because people are packed tight and the room reverberates. Bring tissues for the loo and ignore the lack of soap to wash your hands and you’ll manage just fine.

dsc_0028.jpg Series of wood fires burn constantly in the grill area and the enamel bowls line up with numbered tickets of individual raw meat orders. People return periodically to nag the grillers that their table is still waiting, but patience is required – our order went in early yet we still waited about three hours for our braaied food. There were some tricky balancing moments while carrying food to the table through the seething masses pouring in the other way to watch their team. But the lamb chops and sausages in particular were charred to deliciousness.

Despite the electric performance by Bafana Bafana resulting in the win that just wasn’t enough, there was no thought of heading home when the final whistle blew. South Africa may be out of the World Cup but townships know how to party and put smiles on faces. Women hopped up from their benches to tabletops as the deejay started spinning catchy beats. We put on a proud show – and my sporting visitors loved being part of a uniquely African day.
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Mzoli’s Place Near Ekhaya corner store, Gugulethu, Klipfontein Road M10 exit from N2. Tel 021 638 1355.

RECIPE: Yummy apple Tarte Tatin

Don’t you love being in South Africa now? dsc_0014.jpg Living within a long-range kick of Green Point stadium has massive advantages when you’re attending a live game. But visiting overseas friends and locally-based family think so too, which means I’ve been making a lot of warm soup and quick meals to feed the departing hordes. In between there is the serious business of watching games on TV, and occasionally remembering to do some paying work…

But I have to pass on a delicious recipe before the apple season finishes. You might want to give it a bash - the wetter Cape weather and sport-based gatherings mean more home entertaining. This recipe is my version cobbled from the recipe for one large tart in Rick Stein’s French Odyssey, and Pete Goffe-Wood’s individual tatins in his Kitchen Cowboys cookbook.

A lovely collective gift from long-time friends was the inspiration: my Le Creuset cast iron 30cm skillet pan goes from the stovetop into the oven. Stein says you can use a tarte tatin dish but I’m not convinced you’ll get the same results.
dsc_0001.jpg Anyway it’s delicious and oozily gooey - so worth the effort to make!

APPLE TART TATIN
serves 8 or 10

400 - 500g puff pastry (Woolworths makes an extra-butter version)
250g softened butter, diced
750ml (3 cups) castor sugar
9 firm apples (I used Cripps Pink because it has good acidity)
lemon zest for serving
vanilla ice cream for serving

  1. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface without handling it much. Cut a rough circle a little larger than your skillet pan and transfer the pastry carefully to a large baking sheet. Chill for minimum 20 minutes.
  2. Make the apple filling by peeling, coring and halving each apple. Sprinkle the diced butter evenly over the skillet surface. Pour the castor sugar over and then pack the apples tightly on top, rounded side down.
  3. Heat the skillet to medium (use a wide, even flame if using gas) and cook the apple and sugar mixture for 20 – 25 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally until the sugar and butter mix with the juices to produce a thickish, toffee-toned sauce. The apples should be tender but not falling apart. Don’t allow the butter and sugar to burn in the process.
  4. In an oven preheated to 200 degrees C, lift the pastry carefully over the cooked apples. Tuck the edges inside the pan. Prick a few times with a sharp knife.
  5. Bake for 5 minutes then reduce the heat to 190 degrees C for 15 – 20 minutes until the pastry is puffed, crisp and golden. Use a baking tray on a lower shelf to catch any sugar spillage.
  6. Remove the skillet from the oven and rest for 5 minutes. Grab a strong man and ask him to invert the pastry into a large round serving bowl. dsc_0006.jpg Garnish with lemon zest and serve slices with vanilla ice cream.

TIP: I’ve previously used Granny Smith apples for tartness, but remembered pastry chef Vanessa Quellac telling me that pink apples tend to make firmer baking partners so I gave them a whirl. Very happy with the pink results.

Feel the Cape Love Magic at Theatre of Dreams

I was invited to attend the opening night of Richard Griffin’s Theatre of Dreams 2010 Love Magic Tour near Canal Walk last week as the season kicked off. What a buzz! From the minute you enter the colourful eZingalethu shanty town - a 2010 addition - surrounding the vintage mirrored velvet show tent, you start feeling the creative magic. inside_tent_b.jpg Exotic creatures with broad shoulders, fairy wings and wigs wander past sipping from oversized champagne glasses as you’re taking in the Boot-Ishoe stall selling numbered gumboots adjacent to the temporary tattoo parlour. A mojito is thrust into your hand near the front of the theatre queue as you’re focusing on a washline of pink and orange hot pants hanging above a veggie garden of plastic pumpkins.

This is a return to dinner and a show on a big scale, with lovely Cape flavour. When the spotlight shines, singers and performers put on a class act. Nostalgic former Madame Zingara Cape Town restaurant food features and the vibe is creatively contagious. Many of Griffin’s original staff are back – kitchen, creative team and flamboyantly confident or camp waiters. Griffin has moved out of the kitchen into the role of creative director. ivor_pietersen_madam_zingara_opening-8.jpg Talented Valentina Love conceptualises the show.

It’s quite an operation considering that 400 guests are served in a sitting, with 120 staff employed per shift. On site theatre of dreams the dress code is described as ‘bohemian and burlesque’, so any guests bringing their bunny ears or feather boa will feel at home. I didn’t expect great food when I saw the attention to detail of theatre décor and tables (a Barbie doll and fake rose centrepiece anyone?). But the four-course menu was of a high standard. Filling too.

We nibbled on a hot and cold antipasti platter for two, followed by a pasta course (our artichoke ravioli with Cinzano cream sauce being undercooked was a minor glitch). Main course options included something vegetarian or springbok shank or signature Madame Zingara chocolate chilli steak or Norwegian salmon. Appropriately, the steak has been halted in early 2000 with its sweet sauce topped with a nest-like deepfried noodle stack. The fish has a similar timewarp flavour with coconut cream and herb oil drizzles, served on pumpkin mash. The evening finishes off with a tasty trio of desserts.

2010 performance highlights include Ukrainians Igor Kostenko and Argem Lyubanevych, whose muscled limbs hold up under a startlingly impressive strap act. ivor_pietersen_madam_zingara_opening-167.jpg Equally awe-inspiring are the Russian roller disco duo of Kristine and Ivan Prokopyuk, who trained in Moscow State Circus. Kristine’s glittery gold and black body is whipped vertically and horizontally as the couple whirl around a tiny circular stage. Fellow countrywoman Polina Volchek contorts her flexible gymnastic body with multiple hula hoops in positions I didn’t think possible. There is local show content too – a vocal high is South African divas Lilian Khumalo, Marguerita Freeks and Dorothy Engelbrecht of The Original Tons of Fun with their cover versions spanning the decades. “You’re just too good to be true…”

eZingalethu shanty town is an appealing side attraction, accessed as you queue for the main Theatre of Dreams tent (funds raised through the Love Magic Tour will facilitate the construction of a medical and community centre in Khayelitsha). Before the show or during toilet breaks, people congregate in the shebeen with its pickled fish label walls, jiving to jazzy tunes of a township band while sipping beer in quarts. You’re lured past Stella’s Place hair salon and a space with Lucky Star pilchard prints. Around the back, car hubcaps lead the way to a chalkboard offering snacks of pap and chakalakka or bunnies in vetkoek.

In short: this is the sort of show where you grab a group of friends and go. It’s grand, it’s fantastical and it’s fun.

The Theatre of Dreams 2010 Love Magic Tour Cape Town season runs from June until October 2010. Shows from Mon to Sat, dinner and show tickets from R300 to R450pp. Cash bar for drinks. Tel 021 001 3366, bookings The show moves to Joburg from October, Durban in 2011.