August 2010

FOODSTUFF: Introducing Daniel Thomas

August 23rd, 2010 — kim maxwell | 7 comments

There’s been a bit of a lull in my blog activity but I’ve had a good reason. A four-day-early baby arrival isn’t something that can be planned, and the ensuing chaos that follows makes it hard to find 30 quality minutes or two free typing hands to get stuck into a keyboard. dsc_0011.jpg

Allow me to digress from restaurants and chefs and to introduce a very special somebody. Daniel Thomas entered the world on Sunday August 8th weighing 3.45kg with a hearty set of lungs. Neither of his parents had changed a nappy before, and were of the opinion that tiny babies were scarily fragile items to handle. We’ve been delighted to learn that nappy-changing isn’t enjoyed by babies either, that little people are fairly robust when their arms are crammed into sleeves, and that certain facial expressions make adult hearts wobble with love. We’re really enjoying the learning curve.

A decision was taken not to find out the sex, but our instincts led us to believe our baby was female. (Parents at birth: “He’s a boy. Oh? But he was meant to be a girl. I know!”) During pregnancy he was commonly referred to as Nugget. The nickname has stuck, frequently shortened to the Nug Bug. For a person whose head is smaller than an adult hand, it seems appropriate. dsc_0070.jpg

Now the food connection…

He was born on a Sunday evening during a long weekend. Twenty lengths at the indoor pool were followed by Sunday brunch at Voila in De Waterkant. Eggs Benedict with a celebratory glass of Graham Beck Rosé in anticipation of the week of his birth. OK, one-third of a glass to keep the disapproving stares at bay…

After a late afternoon movie at V&A Waterfront (note the trend: soon-to-be-parents cramming in multiple leisure activities) we nipped into Pick n Pay to buy ingredients for three weekday dinners: chicken curry, spaghetti Bolognaise and pre-made spinach and ricotta panzarotti (it only needed a tomato sauce to be whipped up). Food was on my mind as we left the supermarket and my waters broke. A hasty hospital trip and by 11pm Daniel was born.

The Nug Bug’s early food preferences? dsc_0030.jpg He has a healthy appetite for breast milk and like his mother, enjoys snacking. So far I’ve eaten mild stews, pizza, Asian dishes livened by chilli, homemade muesli, chocolate, cooked vegetables and plenty of fruit salad without noticeable side effects.

We’ll try not to turn him into a food snob and just let him get on with it. I remember a magazine shoot with a celebrated Stellenbosch chef and his family a few years back, hearing how his toddler had a fascination with bitter black olives and truffle oil over freshly rolled pasta. There is plenty of time for Daniel to develop a gourmet palate if he chooses, preferably on his own account! For the most part he’ll be raised on fresh ingredients, but if Daniel’s curiosity extends to factory-processed McD’s he’ll be welcome to sample the odd Happy Meal too. Kids should be kids and have fun. Provided he’s similarly open-minded about trying spinach, liver and brussels sprouts…

REVIEW: Jardine’s Bullpitt has what it takes

August 4th, 2010 — kim maxwell | 0 comments

jardine9005.jpg Winter specials are controversial amongst foodies. At upmarket restaurants I’ve noticed a few things tend to happen: a) the special is designed to lure new customers, yet attracts a budget-breaker who isn’t really comfortable with a menu beginning with an amuse bouche, b) it attracts a genuine foodie who feels anxious about targeting value, nervous that the chef may skimp on ingredients and creative flair, or c) the experience is ruined by a waiter doing their best to bypass the special and up-sell to pricier a la carte items.

With recent restaurant closures in Cape Town and Stellenbosch increasingly grabbing the Cape’s fine dining kudos, special-occasion CBD eating venues are hard to find. I’d heard favourable reports about Eric Bullpitt’s cooking at Jardine Restaurant from food-loving colleagues. Chef George Jardine (who Bullpitt trained under before Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine was established in Stellenbosch) also rates his skills highly. We made a last-minute decision to book in July, before Bullpitt’s departure for Denmark (he’s off to do a six week stage at Noma, rated first in Restaurant Magazine’s 2010 list).

A three-course winter special for R150 sounded too good to believe, but the description from our waiter was so enticing that three of our table of five ordered it. How refreshing that we weren’t made to feel that doing so was an injustice to the chef. Wines at Jardine are on the pricy side and we’d ordered drinks beforehand at the bar. Hence the Jardine House White, a Vriesenhof Unwooded Chardonnay (R100), seemed a sensible choice. It was a versatile match for the starters and vegetarian main course. We ordered additional Shiraz by the glass.

The restaurant was worryingly empty for a Saturday night, but it meant our table of four adults and a teenager was given extra attention from the kitchen, and in terms of service. The first culinary delight was a little something from the chef: a cauliflower spoom (I had to think creatively to explain that to the thirteen-year-old). Creamy-tangy, totally delicious mouthfuls on a spicy sauce base received universal approval.

A celeriac tortellini starter was a delight of pasta parcels, nuts, a creamy celeriac smear with smoked Granny Smith acidity in diced cubes, and blobs of apple or prune puree. Confit duck terrine is a starter on the a la carte menu, and formed a fine winter special starter too. A spinach-wrapped duck confit round was “accessorised” with cooked baby turnip segments in orange juice, orange pudding, snowpeas and pistachio crumbs. jardine8938.jpg

Main course highlights included seared springbok loin with coffee, persimmons, parsnips and port – it had thumbs up from someone who shoots these buck himself – and the winter special of sirloin steak, a small serving creatively served with smoked potato puree plus tasty dabs of sauces and creamy vegetables.

I learnt early on that vegetable purees perking up a savoury dish are a speciality of George Jardine, and I’m happy to report that he’s transferred this particular skill to Bullpitt. I felt very satisfied after my vegetarian starter and main course. I do find it hard to get excited about waterblommetjies though, and their addition to my main course hasn’t changed that. Roasted Jerusalem artichokes segments filled with a tasty centre, mushroom vinaigrette, smoked potato puree and a sweet element were a more successful aspect of my plate.
On the sweet side, the winter special ginger cake was light, tasty and just right. The espresso soufflé – flavours change regularly - with flambéed chocolate and cardamom ice-cream was declared a little too rich in its combinations. The citrus crème Catalan with a dark chocolate almond torte with crème fraiche anglaise? A successful study in complementary bittersweet and citrus flavours.

In short, the meal at Jardine was well worth it. Bullpitt’s team will continue in his absence. But I recommend experiencing this chef’s personal stamp on plates - patience is required until his return.

Spend: R150 for a three-course set menu (valid until end of September 2010). Two courses at R240. Three courses at R290. Chef’s tasting menu available if the entire table orders.
Value: Very good, taking winter special into consideration
Flavour rating: Excellent

JARDINE RESTAURANT, Bree Street, Cape Town. Tel 021 424 5640, Jardine on Bree Open for lunch Wed to Fri, dinner Tues to Sat.

FOODSTUFF: Richard Carstens finds a culinary home at Tokara

August 1st, 2010 — kim maxwell | 2 comments

I’ve heard whispers, but as of Friday 30 July the news is official: chef Richard Carstens will run the kitchen of Tokara restaurant at the crest of the Helshoogte Pass, when it reopens in October. Current chef Etienne Bonthuis is retreating into Stellenbosch to start his own Dorp Street venture.

Tokara restaurant will be managed by Wilhelm Kühn, co-owner of Jardine Restaurant in Cape Town (the Bree Street restaurant is dispatching a team to provide hands-on operations).

Carstens made his name at Lynton Hall south of Durban, and was excited to set up a signature restaurant called Nova in Cape Town CBD. Unfortunately investors pulled the plug. Earlier in 2010, Carstens was involved in experimental recipe development at Roots at Homini restaurant outside Johannesburg. He’s been consulting to Chez d’Or in Franschhoek’s Huguenot Street on a temporary basis.

At Tokara Carstens promises “not too much molecular focus” as the restaurant will serve “terroir-focused contemporary cuisine” in an a la carte menu where each plate of food offers the diner a sense of the natural environment and location, while mindful of seasonal ingredients. The tasting menu will be for “more playful stuff”.

Although décor in the glass and steel space shouldn’t change dramatically, a new feature will include a bar in the foyer offering drinks with views of vineyards and valley, or of kitchen action alternatively.

The restaurant will serve lunch from Tuesday to Sunday, dinner from Tuesday to Saturday.