December 2010

Gift wrapped: Antonia Labia

Antonia Labia of Casa Labia café explains why visual appeal is important in her family’s exquisite heritage building turned cultural centre in Muizenberg.
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This appeared in Indwe inflight magazine in Dec 2010

History of Casa Labia on Muizenberg’s beachfront? My grandfather, Count Natale Labia, was the first Italian ambassador to South Africa. He built Casa Labia in 1929, modelling it on Palazzo Labia in Venice. All the art, gilt ceilings, silk wall panels, chandeliers and marble fireplaces were shipped by designer Angelo Zaniole. Eighty-one years later I’ve restored that original splendour.

What is inside the Casa Labia house? We’ve created the café in the original living room, with reception rooms leading off so the public can wander and admire the interiors. We have a boutique and a contemporary art gallery. We call it a cultural centre. It’s a beautiful space where we host events such as poetry readings, music concerts and workshops.

The café menu? Few can do food simply like Judy Badenhorst. She’s an experienced chef, combining Italian classics with proudly South African ingredients in her unique way. The food is tasty and visually appealing. You might eat roasted tomato and pepper soup, aubergine and orange salad, and spinach and ricotta pancakes. Her rich, moist Italian-style cake is delicious. dsc_0010.jpg

How did you create the luxe café feel? Flock Design created our contemporary café with old-time elegance. We use damask linen and roses on tables; Princess chairs with original brass chandeliers and marble fireplaces. Although Italy is in our hearts, South Africa is in our soul. Our mostly-local customers are a mix of ages. Due to its seaside location, the café is a destination. It feels special without being pretentious. The food is good enough to bring people back.

Describe yourself? Somebody aesthetically-minded. I worked in public relations and later studied interior design. Food, wine, art and travel are passions. Italian food is my favourite – I love the pastas, fruit and vegetables. And on the French side I love Champagne – I’ll find any excuse to drink it.

Casa Labia Tel 021 788 6062.

2010 flavourCape high points

It’s been an extremely busy year and my blog has suffered for it, sometimes because I’ve done more eating than I’ve had time to document. One thing is for sure: 2010 has seen less money to splurge, yet flavour has still been paramount.

Some of my high points:

dsc_0019.jpg If you want to eat out in a cosy space without blowing your budget on food or wines, La Boheme in Sea Point delivers the goods time and again. At only R95 for two courses and R115 for three, lunch or dinner is affordable and great to swap and share. Even with those friends who sink too many bottles and then suggest everybody splits the bill. Wines represent very good value for a wine bar. A la carte options are sometimes more interesting than what appears on the set menu board, but it’s a minor drawback. Tel 021 434 8797. La Boheme

Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine is high up the list of Eat Out’s top 10 for 2011, so it’s better to avoid the restaurant during high season if you expect appropriate attention. A stolen lazy lunch for four in the slower season reminded me about why I adore George Jardine’s cooking. Like the man, the food is understated and free of culinary bullshit. Yet it rarely fails to deliver a flavour and textural surprise. Jardine’s cooking base is classic but he incorporates modern country touches. Everything on a plate is a necessary flavour component while the execution shows off his maturity and experience. Tel 021 881 3612 Jardine

dsc_0004.jpg For a simple lunch out incorporating an elegant piece of history, Casa Labia Cafe in Muizenberg is hard to beat. Judy Badenhorst’s cleverly inventive cooking is a delight, and owner Antonia Labia has restored life to her grandfather’s original Italian décor in the building with absolutely magnificent results. Once you’ve had your meal in the café, take a stroll through the adjoining rooms created in the 1930s to replicate those in Venice. This is the sort of place you’ll want to wear a nice dress and take your aunties, a group of girlfriends, or enjoy a surprise romantic lunch with your loved one. Prices are nicely in the café restaurant category. Drawbacks are lack of parking along the beachfront road and a tiny wine list. Tel 021 788 6062. Labia Cafe

I’ve only eaten there a couple of times, and plans to return for an inexpensive lunch with an enthusiastic friend were scuppered twice. Never mind, chef Luke Dale Roberts says he’s swamped with upcountry visitors booking out The Test Kitchen, keen to try the flavour of the month. luke_dale-roberts-_image_by_michael_le_grange.jpg He would appreciate the business more in about March 2011… I like his new industrial Old Biscuit Mill space as it reflects his creativity and new freedom with food. From a counter seat one lunchtime chatting and eating for a magazine article profile, I saw how much fun the kitchen is having. The former La Colombe chef is talented in subtle east-meets-west fusions that incorporate delicate elements such as trout and lime with miso. Dinner is three, five or eight courses. Or a la carte elements of those menus ordered at the kitchen bar counter, which I support – you have to be in the mood for a drawn-out set menu. Tel 021 447 2337 Test Kitchen

I’m off on holiday tomorrow where I plan to stay out of restaurants and sit around braais and friends’ beachside tables instead. But on my return I look forward to trying Vanessa Quellec’s new Italian Caffe Milano and pasticceria, opening this month. I loved her pastries, puddings and cakes at The Roundhouse, so can’t wait to taste her new Italian-themed café and bakery venture with Giorgio Nava. This talented American pastry chef was sent to an old-school Italian baker in Lombardia to aquire extra skills. The Upper Kloof street pasticceria’s counters will emit tempting aromas from Quellec’s modern take on traditional Italian cakes and pastries. She’s promised breads, beautiful fruit tarts, bomboloni cream-filled doughnuts, Italian-style brioche, and specialities such as Margheritine di Stresa biscuits. Tel 021 426 5566.

Claremont dim sum with tea anyone?

dsc_0007.jpg News of a new dim sum spot opening in Claremont landed in my inbox this morning. November has flown by in a blur of deadlines, so by the time I’d read the sample menu I’d persuaded my husband we had to juggle our schedules and squeeze in lunch.

Ever since living in Asia I’ve been drawn to dim sum, which the Chinese generally eat with tea for brunch. The thought of dainty pastries and wrappers enclosing flavoursome fillings is impossible for me to resist. And my man now agrees after I introduced him to Hong Kong’s finest dim sum venue, followed by a wild eating adventure in one of the island state’s scruffiest authentic venues during a 2007 trip.

O’ways is situated in the café strip adjacent to Cavendish Square’s pedestrian outdoor area. Lisa Tsai, wife of Mingwei Tsai of Nigiro tea merchants, is behind the venture. She’s roped in chef Marion Kumpf, previously of Aubergine restaurant, and they’re serving breakfast, lunch and takeaways, where some Western items also appear on the menu.

The space looks stylish with rough brick walls and Chinese tea accessories forming most of the decoration. They’ve just opened so teething problems are to be expected. Hence staff were apologetic, but clueless about the types of dim sum on menus; even worse at offering stylistic guidance for the oolong or black or green teas served in beautiful glass pots over burners. dsc_0002.jpg

We ordered a dim sum tasting platter served in six courses (R138), which actually means six dim sum items were combined from the menu. It was a tasty introduction but not filling enough for lunch. Warned we were in a hurry, the kitchen complied and stepped up the pace. Chilled watermelon and wasabi soup was an unusual and refreshing starter, served with a sushi rice ball and watermelon slice.

A small but important point: this is vegetarian dim sum. So there is char siu sou (instead of the more usual pork bau), a little bland with five-spiced tofu, the steamed bun texture a little tight. I didn’t try the steamed har gau dumplings filled with stir-fried oriental mushrooms and spinach. But pot-stickers (crescent-shaped steamed dumplings that are then panfried) were included in the tasting platter, a delicious filling of Chinese cabbage and soy mince partnering basil-litchi sauce. Silky tofu in a sauce was nondescript on lettuce. Mrs Tsai eventually came around, but even she was hesitant to bother the busy chef after wait staff couldn’t confirm a delicious element on the tasting menu – we think it was curried soy mince in an open dim sum wrapper. dsc_0008.jpg

When the bill arrived we were still waiting for course six. It turned out to be turnip cake, eventually arriving hot in a takeaway package. There had been kitchen miscommunication and the chef insisted. I’m glad she did as this savoury “cake” was possibly the tastiest dish. But there was nothing to rival Hong Kong just yet.

Spend: Individual dim sum priced at R23 to R28. Six-item tasting menu at R138. Wide selection of Asian teas at R25 per pot.

Value: Can’t comment on individual items but the tasting menu should offer more for the price.

Flavour rating: Fair. Vegetarians and health-conscious diners will find more to satisfy.

O’WAYS TEACAFE, Shop 2, Heritage House, 20 Dreyer Street, Claremont. Tel 021 671 2850. Open Mon to Sat from 8am to 5pm.