May 2011

FOODSTUFF: delicious dim sum makes my Monday…


Friends keep urging us to join for dinner at their Chinese local in Sea Point. It’s cheap, good and there’s no wine list so they take their own wine and glasses. For one or other reason we haven’t managed it yet.

Then today I read on Rossouw’s Restaurants Cape Town (Rossouw’s Restaurants) about inexpensive Chinese fare including dim sum at Hesheng. Jackpot, this is the place. But why hadn’t our friends mentioned dim sum specifically? dsc_0011.jpg

Within an hour my husband had returned with two versions of freshly made encased Chinese tasters: plain pork. And - my favourite - pork and spring onion dim sum. We pulled out soy sauce and Chinese rice wine vinegar to dunk them in. Delicious! Takes me back to happy Hong Kong weekend brunch dim sum memories in an instant, minus the long queues. As a first-timer our Xhosa nanny Portia couldn’t negotiate the chopsticks we proffered but declared “that Chinese stuff” rather tasty.

R40 for 12 pieces. Hmm, how to make my Monday!

Nice extra: The owners kindly offered their umbrella so a car dash was possible.

HESHENG 70 Main Road, Sea Point. Tel 021 434 4214 (minimal English spoken so phone conversations are tricky).

FOODSTUFF: chef news

Sad changes affecting two eating spots I like:

Pastry chef Vanessa Quellec has left Caffe Milano in Kloof Street. The standard of pastry remains high for the moment as she’s still training staff at this Italian-style bakery on a consultant basis. Exciting news for Vanessa: she’s off in early July to spend time training at the Willi Wonker Chocolate Factory of modern-day chocolate: Valrhona chocolate’s HQ in the Rhone Valley, plus a pastry stint in Paris. The good news for South Africa is that Vanessa will be returning to Cape Town to continue her sweet legacy.

Chef Pete Goffe-Wood closed his bistro restaurant Wild Woods. We enjoyed plenty of happy meals eating hearty fare at affordable mark-ups. Unfortunately Hout Bay’s location made it too far a trip for Capetonians on a regular basis, and Pete didn’t get enough support from the locals to sustain it over the long run. Pete hopes to open again in a busier location when the time is right.

FOODSTUFF: fave Cape winter specials list 2011


dsc_0014.jpg A friend asked for my annual list of winter specials so I’ve rounded up a few delicious meals from venues with proven track records that I know to be good. As a rule I find better value by opting for smarter restaurant tables – those places you would like to eat at but can’t justify the expense ordinarily.
Please post feedback about your meal experiences or recommend other good winter specials not listed here…

Constantia Uitsig Restaurant, Constantia Uitsig wine farm, Constantia. Tel 021 794 4480 (closed during July). Lunch: two courses at R190 (no wine), three courses at R220 (no wine). Dinner: three courses at R250 (no wine).

HQ, Heritage Square, Cape Town CBD. Tel 021 424 6373. Not specifically a winter special but stylish steakhouses are worth knowing about and HQ’s 2 for 1 Mondays is luring crowds during winter months. On Monday nights pay ‘Two for One’ for HQ’s signature salad, 250g aged Namibian sirloin and chips at dinner. Spend: R155 for two. Wash it down with ‘Two for One’ cocktails (only pay for one cocktail) from the selected menu. Or at lunch on Mon to Sat, order 125g sirloin, salad and chips. Spend: R99pp.

Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine. Jordan wine farm outside Stellenbosch. Tel 021 881 3612. Family-friendly. Spend: a surprise chef’s taster plus three courses of the day at R225pp, including two glasses of quality Jordan white or red wines. See Winter special lunch at Jordan.

La Colombe, Constantia Uitsig wine farm, Constantia. Tel 021 794 2390 (closed during June). Lunch: three courses with a wine carafe at R280pp. Dinner: five-course tasting menu with five wine pairings at R390pp.

La Mouette, Regent Road, Sea Point. Tel 021 433 0856. ‘2 for 1 Winter Special SALE: buy one six-course Tasting Menu and get one free.’ Spend: R240 for two people. Additional wine pairing at R180pp. The June menu features duck liver parfait on toast, white bean soup with a smoked tomato twist, and braised beef shortrib with polenta. dsc_0020.jpg

Planet Restaurant, Mount Nelson Hotel, Cape Town CBD. Tel 021 483 1000. Spend: R220pp for four courses, or R300pp for six courses (meat or complete vegan menu) of their Journey Menu. Feel elegantly cosy surrounded by flickering stars and orbiting planets inside the Nellie’s revamped formal restaurant. Exec chef Rudi Liebenberg’s Journey Menu includes dishes such as salmon trout compilation; rooibos-cured ostrich fillet with lentil salad, labneh and sweet and sour pickled beetroot; creamed celeriac soup with herbed cheese and garlic croutons; roasted kingklip with curried onion sauce, tomato salad and coriander potato croquette; and so on… For the finale, a dessert titled ‘Hey Apple’. Coffee and friandises are included.

Terroir at Kleine Zalze restaurant, Stellenbosch. Tel 021 880 8167. Family-friendly. Spend: two courses at R170pp; three courses at R195pp from the Green Season menu. One glass of Kleine Zalze Cellar Selection wine is included. Lunch or dinner. Starters include Michael Broughton’s delicious gnocchi or squid with tomato jam and rouille. Mains: beef fillet with béarnaise and mushrooms, or wild mushroom risotto with asparagus and porcini foam. Tip: A three-course meal from their regular a la carte menu will set you back over R300, so the winter deal seems sweet.

The Foodbarn in Noordhoek. Tel 021 789 1390. Extremely family-friendly. Spend: three courses at R165pp, four courses at R185pp, five courses at R215pp – each course includes a taster of Steenberg wines. Lunch or dinner excluding Sun. Franck Dangereaux’s sample course: A pork and cinnamon springroll on mash with rocket and garlic jus. Or lemon panna cotta with thyme meringue and berry sauce. See The Foodbarn winter special review

*The Greenhouse at Cellars-Hohenhort, Brommerslvlei Road, Constantia. Tel 021 794 2137. Peter Tempelhoff’s Winter Surprise Special menu paired with Klein Constantia wines. Dinner only (closed during July) Spend: R240pp for five courses (no wines) or R295pp for five courses including wines. Quote ‘Winter Surprise Special’ when making a reservation.

The Roundhouse, Stans Holt, Camps Bay. Tel 021 4384347. Chefs Eric Bulpitt (ex Jardine) and PJ Vadas are collaborating in the kitchen. Lunch spend: R180pp. Order The Express Menu ie any three courses from the Winter Special Dinner menu. Dinner spend: seven courses at R240pp (no wine) or R260pp (wine tasters included) of the Winter Special Menu. Dishes could include Karan beef tartare with oyster mayonnaise, bone marrow and beer gel, or celeriac roasted in goats butter, onion and juniper purée, cider-fermented apple and hazelnut milk. To finish, lemon soufflé with cheesecake icecream.

FOODSTUFF: Winter special lunch at Jordan

dsc_0009.jpg Short of time and looking for one winter special meal out that ticks all the boxes? I highly recommend George Jardine’s daily-changing winter menu - tried it last weekend. I certainly go for the magnificent panoramic view and relaxed vibe, but Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine tops my list for exquisite food that sounds straightforward yet simply and understatedly knocks the senses into submission. The day’s menu could feature barrel-smoked tuna, followed by saucy braised veal frikadelle with roasted Jerusalem artichokes and Stellenbosch Ceps, to homemade ice cream or baked malva-style puddings.

dsc_0009.jpg Meal highlights on the day: 1. Hot-smoked Franschhoek trout with dots of charred aubergine puree, and sago – served as tangy sago vinaigrette and then as crunchy sago chips similar to fried Indonesian prawn crackers. 2. Utterly delicious Valrhona chocolate hot pot with homemade vanilla icecream. A spongy mass with bittersweet French chocolate oozing from the centre.
To drink: Jordan barrel-fermented Chardonnay 2009 – delicious with the trout starter - and Jordan Prospector’s Syrah 2008 with rich braised veal frikadelle. It was even fine to take along our little guy.

See Cape Winter Specials list 20110.

REVIEW: Sunday lunch to Driefontein in Greyton and back

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Ever felt like jumping in the car, driving for an hour or so and having lunch off the beaten track? I’ve often thought about it, then phoned around and found everything fully booked. So a little planning is required, but I’d recommend Driefontein the next time you have the urge to do something different. It’s around 130km from Cape Town, involves some great drive-by scenery and a very comforting atmosphere for Sunday lunch.

Herman de Kock is the fifth generation living on this Greyton farm. He and partner Philip Hugo have day jobs. But come Sunday, they open their somewhat weathered farmhouse to the public and put on a bountiful spread that unfolds over a few hours. They cook for their own enjoyment. dsc_0007.jpg Everybody is expected to take their seats at individual tables by 12.45 sharp, and bring their own wine (only non-alcoholic beverages can be ordered). And then the boys lovingly prepare a nostalgic series of help-yourself courses.

I felt like I was eating dishes out of an eighties cookbook (Fair Lady’s Special Occasions by Annette Kesler on my bookshelf comes to mind), complete with groaning platters and hot bakes. I bumped into a winemaker friend who I know to be a regular, and he warned us against filling up on early courses. We so enjoyed the hearty lentil and lamb soup served with vetkoek served first, we couldn’t resist a top up.

dsc_0031.jpg For later courses we exercised restraint. Had to. There was the Med – assorted cold meze, cold cuts and salads to a hot sort of ‘bomb’ of lemonish Greek chicken in phyllo, plenty of nostalgic Afrikaans favourites, from baked tongue in mustard sauce under a layer of crumbs, pumpkin fritters and sweet potatoes cooked in sweet orange juice sauce. Fall-off-the-bone oxtail. Plus more conventional carvery items – ours a gammon roast with crispy potato wedges, cooked-just-right roasted and steamed veggies. On that point, vegetarians will find plenty in the buffet selection, whether dolmades and spring rolls – a little dull – or the tastily gooey cheese-olive-and-tomato polenta bake, or spinach and ricotta cannelloni.

dsc_0015.jpg There’s a welcome break before the dessert table is brought out. Wander to the outside loo or admire the lemon trees planted below the stoep. It’s also a great time to sip some wine in front of the cosy fire, especially when you realise you’re actually in the owners’ lounge. Basjaan the Basset hound is usually underfoot at this point. Our sweet selection included a stunning Pavlova, old-fashioned runny chocolate mousse, fruit salad, chocolate cake, koeksisters made by a Greyton local, and of course Malva pud. Coffee was served alongside.

In short, this is not fancy cheffy stuff but rather sincere home cooking presented in a show-off way. Buffets aren’t really my thing so I plan my attack with selective eating, and don’t get disappointed. But I thoroughly enjoyed Driefontein and will return. It’s a great day out, the owners are gracious and the dining room is full of family trinkets. The wine glasses aren’t great but taking your own wine means drinking options aplenty. dsc_0033.jpg

Spend: R170 per adult, R70 per child. Says Herman de Kock: “If small children are good I often don’t charge them, but if I’m expected to be their nanny for the day then they definitely pay.”

Value: Very good. It’s hard to see how Driefontein makes a profit with such a spread.

Wine: Unlicenced so BYO essential.

Flavour rating: Top marks for effort. Great flavours particularly in slow-cooked items – lamb and lentil soup and oxtail come to mind. Good puddings too. Vegetarians will be satisfied.

DRIEFONTEIN FARMHOUSE, 1km off N2 in the direction of Greyton. Tel 021 028 881 3612. Open Sunday from 12 onwards to 4.30pm. Reservations essential.

FOODSTUFF: 96 Winery Rd 15-year birthday

pork_belly_srips_photo.jpg The gastric juices are on the move again after two months of project-managing our building renovations. What relief to be thinking food and wine again!

I got stuck in over lunch to commemorate 15 years trading as 96 Winery Road restaurant near Somerset West with its sociable restaurant partners Allan Forrester and Natasha Wray are hands-on the wine, service and kitchen. Fellow collaborators Ken Forrester and vintner Martin Meinert add valuable - and highly entertaining - input.

This eatery typifies what is great about the Cape Winelands: a buzzy environment (with winter fire), a solid menu based on quality ingredients and expert cooking, and food and wine service that is informed yet never overbearing. It’s why you’ll find tables of winemakers eating (and circulating interesting wines to mates) on most weekdays, and often see winery owner Ken Forrester dining too.

The assembled birthday group ate tasting portions of 15 tried-and-tested menu favourites. Personal memory lane highlights include - from the starter menu, crispy pork belly strips with chilli jam (miss them at your peril), West coast mussels in a light curried cream, and a crisp Caesar salad with the perfect ratio of lemon-to-anchovy dressing.

A delectable fishy plate of signatures chilli, miso-and-mirin-coated Norwegian salmon, mild spice-dusted battered calamari and open prawn and fennel leaf ravioli with a piquant bite was heavenly – the restaurant should serve this as a trio partnered with a glass of The FMC 2009 flagship vineyard Chenin Blanc.
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The steaks are legendary but for a blast from the past, we dipped into Ken’s favourite, the classic Gatriles duck and cherry pie, and the rich flamed-at-table ‘Hollandse’ creamy pepper fillet. Rich but good with Martin Meinert Printer’s Ink Pinotage 2007.

Must-have desserts include a Crème Brûlée and a bittersweet tart called ‘Chocolate, chocolate, chocolate’. The wine list is comprehensive and wines by the glass are a great way to go. This is one place you should never feel shy to ask to sip something new. duck_cherry_pie_photo.jpg

There are plenty of fashionable restaurants where you’ll struggle to secure a table. I highly recommend a visit to 96 Winery Road instead. And did you know? The 96 refers to the year the restaurant was opened and not the street address.

HOT TIP: During May 2011 96 Winery Road is offering a free main course (ID required) to anybody celebrating a birthday in May. Applicable at lunch or dinner.

96 WINERY ROAD, Zandberg farm, Winery Road, Firgrove near Somerset West. Tel 021 842 2010. Winery Road Open Mon to Sat for lunch and dinner. Sun lunch.