Flavour Cape

Winter specials are controversial amongst foodies. At upmarket restaurants I’ve noticed a few things tend to happen: a) the special is designed to lure new customers, yet attracts a budget-breaker who isn’t really comfortable with a menu beginning with an amuse bouche, b) it attracts a genuine foodie who feels anxious about targeting value, nervous that the chef may skimp on ingredients and creative flair, or c) the experience is ruined by a waiter doing their best to bypass the special and up-sell to pricier a la carte items.

With recent restaurant closures in Cape Town and Stellenbosch increasingly grabbing the Cape’s fine dining kudos, special-occasion CBD eating venues are hard to find. I’d heard favourable reports about Eric Bullpitt’s cooking at Jardine Restaurant from food-loving colleagues. Chef George Jardine (who Bullpitt trained under before Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine was established in Stellenbosch) also rates his skills highly. We made a last-minute decision to book in July, before Bullpitt’s departure for Denmark (he’s off to do a six week stage at Noma, rated first in Restaurant Magazine’s 2010 list).

A three-course winter special for R150 sounded too good to believe, but the description from our waiter was so enticing that three of our table of five ordered it. How refreshing that we weren’t made to feel that doing so was an injustice to the chef. Wines at Jardine are on the pricy side and we’d ordered drinks beforehand at the bar. Hence the Jardine House White, a Vriesenhof Unwooded Chardonnay (R100), seemed a sensible choice. It was a versatile match for the starters and vegetarian main course. We ordered additional Shiraz by the glass.

The restaurant was worryingly empty for a Saturday night, but it meant our table of four adults and a teenager was given extra attention from the kitchen, and in terms of service. The first culinary delight was a little something from the chef: a cauliflower spoom (I had to think creatively to explain that to the thirteen-year-old). Creamy-tangy, totally delicious mouthfuls on a spicy sauce base received universal approval.

A celeriac tortellini starter was a delight of pasta parcels, nuts, a creamy celeriac smear with smoked Granny Smith acidity in diced cubes, and blobs of apple or prune puree. Confit duck terrine is a starter on the a la carte menu, and formed a fine winter special starter too. A spinach-wrapped duck confit round was “accessorised” with cooked baby turnip segments in orange juice, orange pudding, snowpeas and pistachio crumbs.

Main course highlights included seared springbok loin with coffee, persimmons, parsnips and port – it had thumbs up from someone who shoots these buck himself – and the winter special of sirloin steak, a small serving creatively served with smoked potato puree plus tasty dabs of sauces and creamy vegetables.

I learnt early on that vegetable purees perking up a savoury dish are a speciality of George Jardine, and I’m happy to report that he’s transferred this particular skill to Bullpitt. I felt very satisfied after my vegetarian starter and main course. I do find it hard to get excited about waterblommetjies though, and their addition to my main course hasn’t changed that. Roasted Jerusalem artichokes segments filled with a tasty centre, mushroom vinaigrette, smoked potato puree and a sweet element were a more successful aspect of my plate.
On the sweet side, the winter special ginger cake was light, tasty and just right. The espresso soufflé – flavours change regularly - with flambéed chocolate and cardamom ice-cream was declared a little too rich in its combinations. The citrus crème Catalan with a dark chocolate almond torte with crème fraiche anglaise? A successful study in complementary bittersweet and citrus flavours.

In short, the meal at Jardine was well worth it. Bullpitt’s team will continue in his absence. But I recommend experiencing this chef’s personal stamp on plates - patience is required until his return.

Spend: R150 for a three-course set menu (valid until end of September 2010). Two courses at R240. Three courses at R290. Chef’s tasting menu available if the entire table orders.
Value: Very good, taking winter special into consideration
Flavour rating: Excellent

JARDINE RESTAURANT, Bree Street, Cape Town. Tel 021 424 5640, Jardine on Bree Open for lunch Wed to Fri, dinner Tues to Sat.

As a winter sunny Sunday lunch choice in Franschhoek, few venues beat Bread & Wine restaurant at Môreson winery. It rarely fails to tick the boxes as a restaurant serving flavoursome yet innovative country fare that is free of pretentions. Other pluses include views of orchards from outdoor tables, wine tasting next door on a Sunday, and chef Neil Jewell’s home-cured charcuterie and products at the Farm Grocer to tempt on your way out.

Our table of ten was a mix of local and visiting adults and children, and there were plenty of similar sized groups around us. Margherita pizzas were ordered for candidates under 12 while the rest focused on starters and mains.

A shared antipasto plate (R105) received plenty of satisfied smiles, farm-cured hams, mortadella, salami and lamb biltong attractively presented on a wooden stand stacked with crostini. Scotch egg segments, olives, yoghurt cheese balls and rocket salad made appropriate flavour friends, and even the Italians present felt the charcuterie was up to scratch. We picked at thin slices of Neil’s signature narrow pizza, a long thin-based version topped with mild Cape Malay-spiced lamb confit, baba ganoush, Alpine cheese, peppadews and fresh herbs (R55).

Being soccer fans, we felt obliged to support Neil’s World Cup of Sausages, a “battle” between eight or 10 sausages or sausage-inspired dishes representing some of the competing soccer nations. Dutch frikadellen sounded interesting, as did England’s pork and oyster terrine. Two shared portions of Greek turi sausage were served with rice-shaped orzo pasta and a tzatziki-inspired feta mould (R55). Sausage flavours seemed a touch too delicate perhaps, but the dish was a fun way to drum up fan fever all the same.

Main choices worth singling out include a hearty confit of pork belly with cassoulet and Provencal crumbs (R130). Less successful, seared tuna with creamy polenta (R130) was way overcooked. And a triumph, char-grilled octopus that looked as vibrant as it tasted with roast tomatoes on flavoursome risotto with chorizo (R125). A starter portion of potato and fontina cheese gnocchi (R55) with a runny centre hit the spot as a lighter vegetarian option, a smoked mushroom vinaigrette and crisped leek bits adding freshness and crunch to the dish.

We sipped Môreson Pink Brut Rose, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinotage, all with very moderate mark ups. The meal then tipped dangerously into red card territory when a waitress told us the chocolate fondant puddings were all sold out. Dessert alternatives were limited to poached rhubarb and custard, or plates of fudge and sweets. A dejected mood settled over the group.

But manageress Tina Jewell made a brilliant save - three portions of warm chocolate fondant (R50) were available after all! As with most dishes at Bread & Wine, it had a twist here and there. A salted caramel ice cream and caramel praline combined deliciously with the oozy-centred warm chocolate cake and coffee sauce drizzle. We left happy and full after enjoying the sunshine. The only criticism: there is a creative selection of starters to entice, but Bread & Wine could expand a bit on their main course and dessert options.

Spend: About R230 for three courses, excluding drinks. The fact that many starters can be shared reduces the group per head spend to around R200.

Value: Good. Flavour rating: Very good. Options for vegetarians.

BREAD & WINE, Happy Valley Road, Franschhoek. Tel 021 876 3692, Bread & Wine Open for lunch Mon to Sun.

Are you also annoyed and irritated, tired of being overcharged for food that under-delivers at mediocre eateries passing as restaurants? Surely I can’t be alone here. After too many recent disappointing experiences, I’ve realised I have three alternatives: one, resist spur-of-the-moment meals at popular places because I can often prepare better results at home with similar ingredients. Two, stop dining out completely (impossible). Or three, eat out less often and frequent only owner-run places for modest meals. And occasionally, spend more but eat better at fancier establishments run by chefs with a proven reputation. I’m opting for three.

You’ve surely had similar dismal meals at neighbourhood eateries, entering after assuming the venues can’t be too bad if routinely packed with people? Try strange sauces concocted from the condiment shelf, ruining grilled calamari and chips, or a prawn and chips dish respectively, at Bravado! in Green Point. Nearby, Doppio Zero delivered a R60 salad with contents out of a catering pack. Did the kitchen staff think diners wouldn’t notice old, soggy leaves partnering underripe avocado segments? The offending salad removed, a gristle-ridden steak roll didn’t do much to improve the mood. Take-away pizzas from Southpole near Milnerton revealed a curious bulk cheddar-dominated mozzarella topping (a kitchen cutting corners?), and a hefty R15 charge for basil leaves with additional rocket leaves curiously charged at R5.

Rather doubtful of ever finding a modestly-priced culinary pick-me-up, six of us went for Sunday lunch in Hout Bay. And I’m happy to report that a new venue called Wild Woods saved the day. A one-page menu offered enticing options, many ingredients sourced from small-time farmers or artisan producers. I spotted some nostalgic dishes I recall eating as a child, but with a creative twist here and there. A hand-selected wine list ignored boring co-operatives or monopoly wineries with convenient distribution, and instead showcased labels from interesting small-timers such as Adi Badenhorst. Six options came in at under R100 a bottle.

Wild Woods opened in January 2010 on the former site of Comida restaurant, adjacent to Chapmans Peak Hotel. Chef and restaurateur Pete Goffe-Wood hasn’t bothered to alter the previous venue’s décor so the loos look a little tacky. But it means hefty overheads aren’t passed on to diners and menu mark-ups are moderate – he wants locals to return as regulars, and a kids menu will attract families (management specifies ‘restaurant-friendly’ children).

The menu punts artisanal and free-range ingredients where possible, and between us we taste-tested a good range of dishes. A platter of talked up Spanish-style ham from Prince Albert’s Jamon Lucas offered salt-cured tanginess with rocket and shaved Parmesan (R60). Wellington’s artisanal Buffalo Ridge mozzarella was the other pricier starter (R60), equally delicious with miniature tomatoes roasted on the vine and homemade pesto. Most starters are between R40 to R50, ranging from Caesar salad to free-range chicken liver parfait, toast and onion marmalade.

Bistro favourites dominate main course options too, ranging between R60 and R100. Between us we tried crackling-crisped hunks of pork belly - comfort food if ever there was – in a pool of mustard sauce, mash and roasted fennel bulb. Along similar lines, a deliciously old-time Sunday roast beef included creamed horseradish, perfectly puffed Yorkshire pudding and a glossy gravy. Grilled sirloin was nicely aged and ably matched by Café de Paris butter and crunchy narrow chips. Roasted free-range chicken breast sounded an unusual combination with fresh porcini slices, potatoes and béarnaise, but worked surprisingly well on the plate. If anything lagged behind it was service. Friendly enough, but staff training is obviously a work in progress.

We had the choice of gorging on a chocolate pot with homemade malt ice cream or a grape pannacotta with raspberries. The cheese plate offered a good local selection, with toasted homemade bread and relish. Sorbets of the day made a great lighter option, peach working well with a really refreshing grapefruit and Campari combo. It left a sweet note on an uplifting experience all round. Oh, and don’t expect to try all the dishes I’ve recommended - the menu changes often.

WILD WOODS, adjacent to Chapmans Peak Hotel, Hout Bay. Tel 021 791 1166, wild woods Open for lunch Tues to Sat, dinner Tues to Sun. Series of shared platters for Sun dinner at R135 per head.

In the January 2009 issue of WINE magazine, I was part of a team of reviewers recommending 10 South African spots for good, simple seafood see WINE seafood.I selected the team and the criteria, and also reviewed all Western Cape venues. How disapointing a year on to discover that quality had slipped severely at some of them.

During December and January 2010, over nearly a month of visiting family or friends, a summer holiday request for seafood didn’t seem unreasonable on days when we didn’t fancy entertaining at home. As with the WINE magazine 10 spots, we sought out everyday seafood where the focus was on freshness and simple presentation. Yet the quality of food and service seemed to take a serious nosedive once the serious holidaymakers arrived. With a few exceptions the motto seemed to be: tourism is alive and well and we’d love to take your money, but we’re very happy to rip you off.

Here are my 2010 summer holiday highs and lows, from those that made the original top 10 or reserve bench in January 2009 of WINE magazine:

Thumbs up: Live Bait, downstairs in Kalk Bay harbour, early December Sunday. Tel 021 788 5755. In my original 10 favourites, I’d happily go again. The linefish was creatively presented, succulent and served with a Champagne sauce and colourful vegetables. The battered hake and chips was fried in fresh batter, in oil that had been changed regularly, and the price was average. Visitors from overseas enjoyed the lunch and were happy to wander the streets afterwards.

Bientang’s Cave, inside a caveside precipice adjacent to the old harbour, Hermanus, early December weekday. Tel 028 312 3454. Previously only in the WINE magazine reserve bench, but it deserves an upgrade after we spotted two whales very late in the season! Aware that it is a tourist trap, we booked a waterside table over the bay. We were disappointed to hear they only had calamari steak cut into strips, instead of tubes, but the dish was pretty tasty nevertheless. What a pleasant surprise to have the bluenose catch of the day expertly grilled and served with thin chips and lots of lemon wedges. No-frills food, but worth a stop when you have visiting friends in search of sun, sea and decent grub.

Thumbs down: Quayside Cabin, new harbour, Hermanus, mid December weekday. Tel 028 313 0752. Absolutely appalling meal. Originally included in the WINE magazine seafood top 10 for being an inexpensive, simple harbourside venue that wasn’t part of a franchise. I liked the fact that they use sustainable fish suppliers. But having a SASSI sticker on your door doesn’t excuse poor ingredients or delivery during a busy service. A waiter persuaded our table that three orders of calamari were “the best around” even though they were strips in crumbs. Two orders of a calamari and prawn combo, plus one calamari and fried fish combo. The battered fish was off, so we returned it directly to the owner in the kitchen (the waiter being too busy to notice). The dish removed from the bill, we were charged for a replacement starter portion of calamari ordered. Even the calamari didn’t come near its hyped reputation because the oil hadn’t been changed regularly and it was over-seasoned. With no apologies from the owner, we paid our bill as fast as possible and left with that stodgy unsatisfied feeling you have after eating too much bad fast food.

Tricky things to photograph: spot the whale fin!
Thumbs up: Chapmans Peak Beach Hotel, Hout Bay. Tel 021 790 1036. In the original list of 10, I wrote that if you queued for a deck table and ordered a pan of “tender calamari rings in light crumbs, you won’t bother anywhere else”.
Visiting friends went for lunch in mid January 2010. They were really impressed. Their only regret: not being advised against ordering a separate calamari for their two-year-old as portions were big enough for junior to dip into too.

Gautengers have long been familiar with Teresa Beukes’ cooking style, after frequenting her Sam’s Café and Fino restaurants. Now Capetonians are becoming familiar with her new Sea Point venue called The Duchess of Wisbeach.

Décor in the tiny space is as eclectic as Beukes’ personality is rumoured to be, portraits of Victorian ladies sharing space with gilt mirrors, distressed brick pillars and damask in the dining space. Squeezing into a cramped bar with views of a stuffed cow head and bookshelves, we waited beyond our requested late dinner reservation for a table while camp characters rushed past and a drunk man shouted at a waitress. In the buzzy atmosphere none of it seemed out of place.

A one-page menu offered creative starter options but we struggled to be lured when it came to main courses. At our table of four, the boys looked past steak tartare and zoomed in on retro prawn cocktail (R53) – queens in a cocktail sauce that lacked zing to make it special. The girls had kingklip fishcake (R56) and fish fingers (R53) respectively. Lovely homemade mayo partnered comforting minced fishcakes. But the highlight was the fish fingers, solid fishy strips jazzed up in spicy crumbs, delicious with onion raita.

Two beef fillets were grilled correctly with creamy pepper sauce (R95), but the handcut chips on the side were disappointingly soggy. A King George burger (R75) was pleasant enough with a homemade patty, toasted bun, pickles and trimmings, but wouldn’t beat a gourmet burger specialist such as Hudson’s. The surprise was the unusual mussel dish (R70), shells arriving in a fragrant vapour of carrot juice, ginger, chilli and coriander. A peculiar combination but it worked.

Wines at the Duchess are limited – the Beukes philosophy is to offer homely, made-from-scratch food with a few fancy tweaks, as though you’re at a dinner party. So it’s unsurprising that she lists only a few wine labels of producer friends instead of trying to be comprehensive. All very well, but the limited white selection meant we struggled to find a food-friendly alternative to Iona Sauvignon Blanc beyond a pricy Chenin Blanc. Forced to switch, De Grendel Shiraz (R139) delivered everything expected of a red.

It was late so we didn’t venture too far into the sweet section, but nostalgic treats await such as banana split with homemade banana ice-cream or bread and butter pudding. Our shared spoons competed in a serving of Turkish delight and nougat ice-cream (R40). Quite delicious in all its calorific creamy-chewy richness.

Spend: about R185 for three courses, excluding drinks.
Wine: Limited printed list.
Value: Fair. Flavour rating: good but not great. Plenty for vegetarians.

DUCHESS OF WISBEACH ‘BORD KOS’ 1 Wisbeach Road, Sea Point. Tel (021) 434-1525. Open Mon to Sat for dinner only.

I was thrilled to hear that a favourite vividly orange haunt in De Waterkant has finally re-opened in the Chelsea section of Wynberg. It’s taken a couple of years for Stephan van de Ven to figure out what to do, but good things are usually worth the wait.

Approached by fellow Netherlander Tin Korver (whose businesscard says Chair-Man of Twiice international) to share a space in a renovated Victorian building, Van de Ven didn’t hesitate. His neighbours are a vibrant florist, and a baby boutique selling those overpriced imported and cutely packaged clothing items geared at Bishops Court and Constantia young mothers (I’m not joking, a vest was over R300…).

The new space is fresh and inviting. The small menu has familiar Dutch favourites plus a few new options. It feels like Van de Ven just picked up where he left off. He even recruited his old kitchen and service team, including Marizka du Toit in front. The space feels more upmarket, thanks to dark grey walls, wood shelving details and orange only as accents - the original orange-framed photos are on the new walls. The team already seems very comfortable in the new open-plan kitchen.

The Merry Muncher was delighted with a new menu addition, a duck and chicken liver parfait (R60) served with nicely caramelised onion marmalade and a quality slice of brioche from Knead. Wild mushroom tart (R65) served on a puffy pastry disc hit the spot, a port-infused creamy mushroom sauce drizzled over, with rocket on the side. The old menu favourite deserves its place here.

Nasi goreng served with chicken satay, peanut sauce and Indonesian prawn crackers (R65) looked good, going to another table. Our shared main of two salmon trout fishcakes (R65) in crumbs was fried past its best, but decent enough with fresh dill mustard sauce. We drank Joostenberg Chenin/Viognier 2009 (R105) which is also served by the glass. The list includes a couple of whites, reds and MCCs, more than acceptable considering that this is more café than restaurant.

Vying with the old apple crumble with custard is a new item: chocolate cake with orange curd (R40). The description of the latter doesn’t do the pudding justice. It was thick, dark-chocolate-ish and chilled a little too firm in a mousse style. Served in a cappucino cup, liquid fresh orange curd on top. Excellent coffees arrived alongside, but then we could see a shiny stainless steel structure at work from our table, so knew they would be.

Tables in Dutch were already buzzing with young ladies in search of a nibble while catching up on gossip. Why they would be is quite understandable.

Noteable features: Patio tables out back facing a garden and picket fences. Trendy yet comfortable vibe with a good supply of current magazines. Child-friendly. Breakfast, lunch or in between. Private dining space for small functions too.

Spend: R39 to R55 for breakfast (uitsmijter to spicy baked beans on toast or pancakes).
R39 to R65 for lunch (uitsmijter to organic beef kroketten on rye to pasta or fishcakes).
Desserts around R40.

Value: Good. Flavour rating: High.

DUTCH, 51 Waterloo Road, Chelsea Village. Tel 021 797 5838. Mon to Fri 8am – 5pm, Sat 9am – 2pm.